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Thread: D3 rear pads.

  1. #1
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    D3 rear pads.

    This has probably been on here before but after using search I just can't find what I'm looking for.
    I have to replace my rear brake pads on the D3 (2009 TDV6). Looking at the instructions it all looks simple enough - except it looks like you need some sort of special tool to push the brake callipers back?
    Is that correct? Could I get such a tool from Supercheap or similar?
    I need to have this done by Sunday because I'm off out West next week.
    Thanks for any help.
    Jonesfam

  2. #2
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    Its called a screw driver with some rags strategically placed to prevent damage to anything delicate - loosen the bleed screw and carefully lever the calliper pistons back out.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #3
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    I use a small builder's style hand screw clamp with a bit of timber across the pot to stop any damage.

    Peter

  4. #4
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  5. #5
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    My piston compression tool.

    Two nuts and bolts and a bit of bar steel, drill the holes 60mm apart as this will also do the front calipers.

    Ryall
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
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    Well, the rear brake pad change has gone pretty well.
    I used a 5" C clamp & a block of wood to push the calliper back in which worked a treat.
    The only misfortune I had was pulling the brake pad sensor out I broke the curved piece of plastic that bends around to the back of the pad, after a test drive this does not seem to have had any effect on things.
    I would recommend that anyone with the time change there own brake pads to save a few quid. Easy as!
    Jonesfam

  7. #7
    Ean Austral Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by jonesfam View Post
    Well, the rear brake pad change has gone pretty well.
    I used a 5" C clamp & a block of wood to push the calliper back in which worked a treat.
    The only misfortune I had was pulling the brake pad sensor out I broke the curved piece of plastic that bends around to the back of the pad, after a test drive this does not seem to have had any effect on things.
    I would recommend that anyone with the time change there own brake pads to save a few quid. Easy as!
    Jonesfam

    Reckon mine are due soon, out of interest where did you purchase your pads and did you do the discs & adjust the EPB


    Cheers Ean

  8. #8
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    Ean
    Gooday,
    I only did the pads, last service the service manager told me I only had about 10% left on the pads but the discs were OK, when I took the old pads out there was only a couple of mil of usable pad left.
    I have to do the EPB in a couple of weeks (or get LR to do it) because it jammed on a week or 2 ago & I had to emergency release it, haven't used it since.
    I don't know what I'm allowed to say on this site but I got the pads from Roverlord online for a reasonable price & quick delivery.
    These pads are shaped with more usable pad (pad that contacts the disc) but fitted perfectly, they also come with the clips & bolts.
    Hope that helps.
    Jonesfam

  9. #9
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    Those pads with full width ends wont dish the disc the way the LR ones do. Early D4s with alloy calipers had similarly shaped pad material but LR reverted to D3 pads and cast iron D3 calipers because the alloy ones squealed if used whilst reversing. I've used both with my D3 calipers and prefer the squared-ended ones.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  10. #10
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    I refered to Bodsys Brake bible for a recent rear brake overhaul
    CAUTION
    the torques for the caliper / anchor mounting bolts dont agree with the Topix specs
    For RRS the torque spec is 115 Nm Bodsy recommends more than twice that

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