Thread: Oil pump casing...

I also just noticed the need for a toothed flywheel locking tool 303-1123
I do have the flywheel timing tools 303-1117 but when you torque the crank pulley bolt to 100nm plus 90 deg. do you need the recommended tool 303-1123

Short answer Yes.
You will need to remove starter motor and lock the crankshaft via the flywheel as there is no key way or marks on the crank when you have removed the front timing belt cog to enable replacing the oil pump housing.

Ivan

Originally Posted by IvanR

Short answer Yes.
You will need to remove starter motor and lock the crankshaft via the flywheel as there is no key way or marks on the crank when you have removed the front timing belt cog to enable replacing the oil pump housing.

Ivan

I have the tool that locks the flywheel to preserve the timing position. Its the strength of the tool to resist the torque when dealing with the crank pulley bolt, that Im concerned about
LR say to use a different (mandatory) toothed flywheel locking tool for that.
Some UK forum posts say they have used the non toothed timing flywheel tool without drama. I just measured the pin on the locking tool and its 10mm dia of the finest chinese steel.
Found the proper tool available uk but exxy https://jlrequipment.service-solutio...x?SKU=303-1123

I suppose there is one way to find out if its strong enough

Also need to get some info on whether the front crankshaft seal needs replacing, to do the oilpump, and if so are the special tools required

I've done the oil pump change out - the crank locking timing tool holds up fine for undoing the crank bolt and also for torquing it up. It may be only 10mm, but it does have a leverage advantage being on the outer edge of the flywheel.
New crank bolt is recommended
I used a big socket to drive the new oil seal in. Any bit of round steel the right size will do. You do need to be careful getting the seal onto the shaft in the first place as its a tight fit on the shaft and its actually quite a hard seal so could be easily damaged.

Finally bit the bullet and started the timing belt/ oil pump change out this afternoon.
Like others have reported the locking tool didnt fit and needed machining plus the threaded part that picks op the starter bolt was 8 mm not 10 mm and needed retapping. OK since kit only cost $15. Ive managed to backoff the crank bolt without the special toothed tool.

When replacing the oil pump is it essential to drop the sump (oil pan extension)?

you shouldnt have to touch the sump

Originally Posted by shanegtr

you should have to touch the sump

Is that should? Did you also remove alternator?

sorry, typo, corrected now to shouldnt. I pulled the alternator out

Originally Posted by shanegtr

sorry, typo, corrected now to shouldnt. I pulled the alternator out

Thanks mate,
For a moment I thought you were agreeing with the manual. That would put me in a world of pain. To remove the sump means dropping the axle tube (again according to the manual) and I dont have the gaskets at hand