Thread: Wiring path to rear?

Traxide has a kit with complete instructions to do what your asking.

Hi
You can see the benefits of the Traxide system here:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/verandah/6...le-kit-d3.html

I have run a 6 B&S branch off the mainline to the rear into the space behind the rear seats with an Anderson plug on the end for just the purpose you mention.

Cheers
Chris

Originally Posted by alpick

2 questions.

1. What is the easiest path to select for installing aux batt wiring to rear?


Cheers
Thks

The easiest way I have found from the aux battery location (assuming a D3 from your sig box) is through the firewall penetration for the clutch (assuming you have an auto) and running through the driver's side sills to the rear. Pretty easy really. If you search for "trailer brake controller installation". There are some good threads with pictures.

thanks for the tips fellas, for the record,
used the grommet just above and to the right of where the steering column exits fire wall (looking from front of engine).

removed foot rest and under panel trims, driver feet side panel door sills lower b pillar and rear cargo trim.

ran cable under the drivers side sills into the rear, anderson plug to rear.

connectd direct to aux batt via 50amp resetting beaker.

3.5 hour all up.

as stated, easy job really.

cheers.

Hi there
still new to the forum and trolling through threads for interesting tips and tricks.
l just bought a 2010 D4and will be putting a traxide dual battery in. Does anyone have a view on whether it is worth the extra $80 far the USI-160. l can't picture a scenario alone I would need it

As the battery is outside of the cabin and the power at the rear is outside the cabin (next to the trailer connections) I dont see why people want to run the cable into and then out of the cabin.

I ran my cable from the battery into the front wheel arch and then down the top of the chassis, over the top of the rear suspension near the EBP actuator and then to the spot where the trailer plugs are. It is earthed to the body nearby - it needs to be earthed to the body as the battery is earthed to the body and not the chassis.

Some will say that the earth needs to be run back to the battery but the body (not the chassis) forms a big earth return strap. Works fine.

Garry

Originally Posted by dindsy

Hi there
still new to the forum and trolling through threads for interesting tips and tricks.
l just bought a 2010 D4and will be putting a traxide dual battery in. Does anyone have a view on whether it is worth the extra $80 far the USI-160. l can't picture a scenario alone I would need it

Ran out the door the other day on my way to the airport went to start D3, main cranking battery is dead as a doornail, was about to panic when I realised I could reach down and flick the switch by my right knee and then start the car from the Auxilliary and I was on my way in seconds. That was worth $80 right there.

Originally Posted by garrycol

As the battery is outside of the cabin and the power at the rear is outside the cabin (next to the trailer connections) I dont see why people want to run the cable into and then out of the cabin.

I ran my cable from the battery into the front wheel arch and then down the top of the chassis, over the top of the rear suspension near the EBP actuator and then to the spot where the trailer plugs are. It is earthed to the body nearby - it needs to be earthed to the body as the battery is earthed to the body and not the chassis.

Some will say that the earth needs to be run back to the battery but the body (not the chassis) forms a big earth return strap. Works fine.

Garry

Exdactly what I did many years ago, has worked a treat, never had any problems
Only thing I did different though was that I wired it to a new LH large round plug. My camper trailers have had two large round connecting plugs.