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Thread: D3 Transmission Service - Necessary?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
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    I have gone to not using sealant. Had a few leak slightly, and the loctite stuff I was recommended to use caused the gasket to actually split slightly. I fit them dry now and not had an issue since.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  2. #22
    josh.huber Guest
    I use multi purpose grease on all my gaskets just a smear to hold them up seems to work

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Margaret River
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    Leak stopped

    I have now re-torqued the screws for the fourth time and the leak has stopped.
    The gasket must compress and take the tension off the fasteners. Anyway good news but will keep an eye on it.

    I was getting to the point where it looked like I would dump the oil and start again

  4. #24
    josh.huber Guest
    Torque wrenches are for pros trust your wrist and you will be leak free ;-)

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Margaret River
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    I think you are right Josh

    I think the trick is to over torque the screws from the get go
    Otherwise, like me, you will retorque them 4 times to get a seal.
    The ones up front cant be accessed with a tq wrench anyway as they are blocked by the front chassis spreader

    Anyway all's well that ends well. She took the sport for a long run today and still no drips

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Balbarrup WA
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    trans gasket sealant

    Have serviced my D3 trans a few times (and a couple of friends trans).
    Have always coated sealing surface of pan, and both sides of gasket with Hylomar.I use brush on (more control of where it lands) , but they also make spray on.
    Let it dry/tack off and then just bolt it on, and do it up tightish, and you may have to re-tighten later as well, but it will seal with Hylomar.
    You can do a couple of coats on the upper surface of the gasket (as the bottom side will have 2 coats if you have already coated the pan) to make sure you get a good seal.
    Have found MOTOSPECS (do a web search as not sure I'm allowed to put up a link) to be best no fuss supplier/good price of pan kits and fluid.
    Hope this helps.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    In a house, in Menai, in The Shire
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    Quote Originally Posted by gasman View Post
    Your being screwed my friend and whilst it is a necessity, find another shop.

    It should be around $600 for the service or at least that is what I paid in Sydney.

    Tell them the mining boom is over.

    Where in Sydney did you take it?
    Thanks

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Coogee NSW
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    PM sent

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Margaret River
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    Quote Originally Posted by vbrab View Post
    [Have found MOTOSPECS (do a web search as not sure I'm allowed to put up a link) to be best no fuss supplier/good price of pan kits and fluid.
    ]
    Yes, Motospecs is where I got genuine conversion pan kit, mechatronics connector sleeve and oil.
    Good to deal with but phone first as they are a warehouse.

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Margaret River
    Posts
    800
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    handy ZF reference

    Found this handy guide, for servicing ZF ATs

    The reference to torque sequence is good value. Note the higher tq for metal pan




    http://www.thectsc.com/images/pdf/th...eplacement.pdf

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