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Thread: Alternator Failure?

  1. #81
    Join Date
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    An almost dead one filled with mud may only have stuck and worn brushes.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  2. #82
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    Any chance of a diagram Graeme? This dummy is having trouble following.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    An almost dead one filled with mud may only have stuck and worn brushes.
    And burnt diodes...

  4. #84
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    The 3.0 has a coolant tube running below the alternator which is held steady with a bracket to which the alternator cable is also tied. The coolant tube blocks a lot of access to the alternator stud but removing the bracket's lower bolts allows the tube to be moved enough to make a difference. However the coolant tube may not exist on the 2.7 or may have a different form due to the lack of a RH turbo and different EGR valves.

    Can the 2.7's stud be seen at all from below?
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Can the 2.7's stud be seen at all from below?
    I'll take a look tomorrow - when it stops raining.

  6. #86
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    The photos aren't the best but it looks easy to access the terminal on the D4 2.7's


    could be a project to do while I'm changing the lower control arms
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #87
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    RRS TDV8 alternator hi jinks

    Hi folks,

    My wife's RRS TDV8 (176000kms) went in for a service at a independent LR mechanic, they say it went flat while they were working on it, battery is 2013 so they're assuming it's ok. They charged and restarted it, said alternator only putting out 12.8V or something, needs replacing ($1660 please). They didn't really explain to me how they test it - I'm assuming there must be a way of 'tricking' the car into thinking it needs maximum charging voltage?

    Wife drives the 8km home, next morning dashlights but not a sausage from the starter. Everyone agrees alternator must be worse than thought.

    That evening RACV man (I'm 300kms away at the time) pops in to check the car and lo, it starts like nothing was ever wrong. And it's started happily all day today (6 deg overnight too).

    Is there anything other than the alternator that could be playing up? Is it as much of a bugger to replace as the $650ish of labour I've been quoted would suggest?

    Thankfully my wife is more than a bit in love with the car, cos she might have to drive it with one arm and one leg...

  8. #88
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich84 View Post

    Alternators on other cars I've had seem to last longer:
    -my Pintara TRX is on to its third alternator at 435K, the original died at 313K and the replacement I bought from a wrecker lasted until 435K.
    -my missus' Audi B5 A4 1.8T is at 320K on original alternator
    -my Audi B5 S4 is still on its original at 260K
    -my current daily Audi A4's original alt lasted 270K. Now at 300K.
    The Lucas alternator on my Oka packed up at 1,290,000 kilometres.....about 10,000 k's after I fitted a DBS......

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