Thread: Disco 3 Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

Did the other side tonight and learnt a couple of lessons that are worth repeating.
Firstly the 24mm long socket made the camber adjustment nuts a whole lot easier to do.
Secondly if you support the bottom of the stub axle assembly with a trolley jack you can remove and replace the lower control arm by removing the bolts at the bushes first which lets you roll the jack back enough to pop out the drive shaft and remove the already loosened ball joint with the assembly nicely supported and able to be raised and lowered to give some wiggle room.



I also put copper non seize compound on the bolts before I refitted them. Mine weren't nearly as bad as some of the pommy ones where they have to get out the petrol powered cutoff wheel to get them out but they were a little rusty so I figured it cant hurt for next time.



All up the second side took me about 2 hours from start to finish with the correct tools and a bit of practice.

Regards,
Tote

Great work mate, so the right side was good practice for the left side

Baz.

Hi Tote,
Did you use Standard ones or the Armoured ones that are the same as the RRS ?

Thanks for the photos, I'll be doing this job soon.

Richard

I used the Britpart ones from LR Direct. They are aftermarket ones so I'm not sure of the type of bushes they are fitted with. I got the LR ones fitted last time (supplied locally) and got about 80,000 KM from them so I decided to give the cheapies a go and see what life they have. I'm keeping the old arms and I might do the bushes on them next time myself so I can get them pressed in at my leisure.
Prices seem to be about 80 pounds each for aftermarket, 120 for oem and about 150 for genuine. All of which are cheaper than the $460.00 I was quoted by the dealer. Freight was about 100 pounds.

Regards,
Tote

I did exactly the same thing, mine have done about 20K so far and they still feel pretty good. I kept my old arms and have thought of trying poly bushes as my car is on its third set of lca bushes. In my case I think it is time to do some of the rear bushes and sway bar rubbers ... joy !

Hi Guys,
Great info Tote thanks.
I do need some clarification on the various types or brands of lower control arms. Have people been using the D4 lower control arms in their D3's? I currently have a recommendation from a UK contact that only the original lower control arms are suitable?
So from those who have changed out their lower control arms, does anyone have a brand they recommend or don't recommend?

I hope this isn't hijacking your thread .
regards Brian

To be perfectly honest I can't tell much difference between the Bearmach ones I put in and the genuine ones I pulled out, the bushes look the same and the only difference I could see on the arms is that Land Rover isn't stamped on them. The Ball Joint has a nyloc nut instead of the steel one the genuine arms have.
The part numbers quoted above are the latest revision of the D3 part number which may be the same as a D4 one but I haven't researched that. Typing the part numbers into LR direct's web site produces a few different options.
Regards,
Tote

I've done mine 3 times now and have to do them again tomorrow (another lost Saturday, but I think of the cost saving).
In my case I seem to need to replace about every 2 years or 80,000k.
Was told by British Parts that all lower arms now have the upgraded ball joint (heavier than on original part). (Looked the same to me when I changed over 1st set.)
1st replacement was with Genuine "stamped" LR arms, next was with British Parts own brand, both seemed to last about the same time. Seems Bearmach or Brit Parts make pretty serviceable replacement parts.
I got the impression that D4 and D3 were same lower arm, as they sold me "D4" arms saying they were the "upgraded" arms. (They fitted)

It seems the bushes get a fair bit of pressure/strain on them and they are what wears as much as the ball joint.
I have also tried just re-bushing, almost not worth the messing about, as the bushes just do not come out like normal bushes and are absolute cows to refit.
Talking 10 ton presses and oxy to remove them out.
I'm told that fitting nylon bushes results in harder ride, with less movement in suspension, and a lot of road "feel"/vibration coming back up into vehicle. But evidently they last longer.

As others have said, using never seize on bolts and drive shaft splines, and that long 24 mm socket are all good time savers.