 Master
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						Master
					
					
						SubscriberFirstly, thank you for this thread as it appears as though I might very well be several hundred dollars better off due to not needing to install a recently purchased LED pulse buster into my new MY14...for those of you that need one for a pre-MY14 keep an eye on the markets section....
So....I've trawled through the very helpful thread initiated by Sniegy and a number of other related ones but still have a question about EBCs, specifically in relation to the power output of the Redarc TowPro that I'm about to attempt installing....
I am clear on the wiring procedure described by Sniegy.
My question concerns the power output of the TowPro, the current rating of the wire needing to be installed from the unit to the rear wiring loom &
the current rating of the D4 wiring between where the wire is spliced in to to pin 5 in the plug.
The TowPro states that the max current of the unit in a 12V setup is 25amps does anyone know if this is the current draw from the battery to the unit - or does this mean that the wiring used to connect to the rear wiring loom also needs to be >= 25 amps?
I'm not clear on this as even if the wiring used to connect to the rear wiring loom also needs to be >= 25 amp, it is my understanding that the actual LR wiring loom that is being tapped into has a max capacity of 15amps.
I have 6mm2 dual core (instantaneous max capacity of 50amp, continuous capacity of around >= 38amps due to heat) but am wondering if this is overkill and if 10-15 amp wire could be used.
Thanks in anticipation.
RickO
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Interesting Basil, all other solutions talk of presenting a lower resistance to the cars circuitry which involves placing a resistor in parallel. LEDs present far greater resistance than the resistor (globe) which is why the issue exists. If wired in parallel, the resistor will allow the correct(increased) current flow on the indicator circuit to enable the cars systems to detect the presence of the trailer. Wiring them in series would not achieve anything I believe.
I would say that Brett is on the right track with the approach he is taking, there must be some other issue.
Cheers,
Sean
“Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein
The way I understood it, was that the LED's were not drawing enough for the car to detect a trailer was connected.
By placing the resistor in series, the current draw is increased, which is why it gets hot, and hence, the car see's the trailer connected.
Just had a thought. I have built my box with the resistor in series with the indicator circuit, so that there is no option for the current, but to flow thru the resistor. When people are talking about connecting it in parallel, are they taking one side of the resistor lead to earth, and the other to the active side of the LED? The way I read the original post, I understood it as being in parallel to the indicator wiring, essentially running alongside the normal wire. Which is why it wouldn't be doing anything. Just wondering if this is where the difference is?
Basil, it is opposite to your understanding. Your understanding of series and parallel is correct though your understanding of the difference between the two is incorrect. Resistance in series will reduce current flow but in parallel will increase current flow.
Here's a video that provides an analogy using toll booths to explain parallel and series circuits (I hope I don't come across as being condescending):
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqCI6liUaME]Series and Parallel Circuits (Tollbooth Analogy) - YouTube[/ame]
Cheers,
Sean
“Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein
Hi Graeme,
Pulse buster works fine.
I have the same issue on my Touareg so was trying to avoid using my temporary pulse buster that I carry around for it....Disco is hard wired.
But I turned the Disco pulse buster off and then tried the two trailers with the resistor in parallel on the drivers side indicator cable at the rear of the mounted trailer lights and trailer lights don't work....just faint blinking.
The same method is supposed to work with the Touareg but no joy. Both resistors are the narva 12/24 volt ones
So I am doing some thing wrong.....unless I have two failed resistors from the pack which would be unlikely.
Brett...
Sean, it's a 21watt led load resistor...don't know the ohms though.
I just saw a pic online showing one side of the resistor on the power going into the lamp, and the other side of the resistor going to the earth wire on the lamp.
I have a wire from resistor diverted off the current line into the lamp, 10cm from the lamp, then the other side of the resistor going back into the current line, 5cm from the lamp.
I think my parallel is in the wrong spot ?
Thanks for your help
Brett...
Brett, That is fine, the resistor can be placed anywhere on the +ve and -ve wires as long as it connects to the same wires as the LEDs.
Check if you have the 24V version of the resistor as it will present 4 times the resistance than required for a 12v circuit (27.4 Ohms vs 6.8 ) so may be too high to achieve the result.
Cheers,
Sean
“Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein
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