ChatterBox
Not these days. My WRX went through a set of rotors for every set of pads.Originally Posted by shanegtr
I have found mechanics always tell me I need new pads when they are only about half gone. I have at least 2 sets of WRX pads at home with over 5mm of material still on them. I had been told the D2 needed new pads near everytime I'd been to the Mech for the last 6 months. Admittedly there was less than 1mm on one pad when I finally took them off last week but there was still plenty left on them 6 months ago. It's pretty easy to check with a torch in the side of the wheel.
Happy Days
Master
SubscriberI want to order new pads and rotors, does anyone have the part numbers for the OE parts, or size and shape pics etc?. I want to confirm i order the correct size and shape, as i'm looking at aftermarket parts such as remsa, bremtec etc etc. I'd prefer not to have to take a wheel off to work out what bits i need to order.
I have a 2011 sdv6 HSE and just intend to replace the front rotors with DBA T2 slotted and new pads
cheers
james
MY11 SDV6 HSE, e-diff, LLAMS, Snorkel, Rhino Pioneer Rack, DBS, BFG KO2 265/65r18, Mitch Hitch, GME TX3550s, GOE stuff....
ChatterBox
Why not just call Todd at Rapid RS. I just did a recent post in another thread. Apparently all the rotors in Australia come from the same place in China. It's just the company that does the finishing that's different. The premium you pay for the DBA name from their marketing.
Happy Days.
Wizard
Subscriber
.....and the source of this gem of information ?
D4 2.7litre
ChatterBox
From Todd himself. RDA and DBA will both tell you they manufacture their rotors in Australia. I didn't ask their definition of Manufacture though.
Blank casts are apparently sourced from China then all machining "manufaturing" work is done here in Australia for at least DBA, RDA and Rapid RS.
Here's a couple of links to DBA own website. There's no mention of casting the rotors, just manufacturing.
Our Achievements - ADB Brakes
Our History - Australian Disc Brakes
DBA look good and have had good marketing, RDA are about half the price, Rapid RS are the cheapest. Rapid RS are pretty popular with the weekend racers because they go through a few rotors and at the end of the day it's the same steel.
DBA have all these fang dangle things like heat senative paint that is no better than a $20 infa red themometer. 2 part rotors that look really cool and they claim you can save money by just replacing the rotor and reusing the hat but the rotor itself is still mor than the other 2 companies her in Australia.
Todd can do a few different groove paterns or dimples but a groove is a groove and the design is really just an apperance thing. His Ultimate gooves look the best to me with curved grooves and dimples but the down side is it takes the most metal away so it shortens the life of the rotor. The current set I have on order are just 8, straight slots.
Happy Days
Master
Having just undergone this exercise myself in the last month...
DBA Front Rotors = DBA2096. (DBA2096S if you want slotted, but doesn't look like there is stock).
Remsa Front Pads - Part #1409.10. (They are NOT the 1158.00, which is for the Discovery 3, 2.7L)
They are very long and large with a noticeable curve and a little metal cyclinder on the end like this:
You will also probably need a single front sensor (near side only).
ChatterBox
Do you guys with short rotor and pad life tow?
I'm interested as I've heard the trailer stability control is that good that it will mask a poorly loaded trailer. As if a trailer was loaded with far too little or far too much ball weight it would cause the vehicle to sway sometime uncontrollably. The trailer stability control uses the brakes to counter the sway but it does it so fast the driver might not know it's happening. The vehicle might seem a little less powerful due the brakes being applied but that is expected anyway due to towing. I've heard (totally unconfirmed) that people have left Sydney with a poorly loaded trailer and worn out their brakes before Newcastle.
Happy Days
Master
SubscriberIs it really necessary to use a torque wrench for the rotor retaining bolt (35nm) and the calliper retaining bolts (270Nm) or is it safe enough to use sensible force?
MY11 SDV6 HSE, e-diff, LLAMS, Snorkel, Rhino Pioneer Rack, DBS, BFG KO2 265/65r18, Mitch Hitch, GME TX3550s, GOE stuff....
Master
SubscriberHow are the Remsa pads performing? any squeal or much dust?
Having just undergone this exercise myself in the last month...
DBA Front Rotors = DBA2096. (DBA2096S if you want slotted, but doesn't look like there is stock).
Remsa Front Pads - Part #1409.10. (They are NOT the 1158.00, which is for the Discovery 3, 2.7L)
They are very long and large with a noticeable curve and a little metal cyclinder on the end like this:
You will also probably need a single front sensor (near side only).
MY11 SDV6 HSE, e-diff, LLAMS, Snorkel, Rhino Pioneer Rack, DBS, BFG KO2 265/65r18, Mitch Hitch, GME TX3550s, GOE stuff....
Master
It's a bit soon to tell, I've only had them on for 1 week and they are still bedding in. Hope to update the thread in a couple of week's time. No brake dust yet through. No squealing either, but it's early days.
I can say for certain that when I swapped to new DBA rotors with the original (worn) brake pads there was an instant improvement in the bite, so I am hoping that will be the case with the new pads later on.
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