Here ya go, specifically for the D4, he is a member of this forum also(drivesafe)
Discovery 4 DBS Kits | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV
Baz.
Good day, I have a 2nd battery fitted in the engine bay of my D4 to power a fridge. Tried using a National Luna intelligent solenoid (modified for the "intelligent" D4 charging system) but it does not work that well - seems to get its knickers in a knot and eventually the 2nd battery is flat. Has any body used the CTEK DC-DC charger in the D4 - good/bad?? Thanks
Here ya go, specifically for the D4, he is a member of this forum also(drivesafe)
Discovery 4 DBS Kits | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV
Baz.
Cheers Baz.
2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
2007 BMW R1200GS
1979 BMW R80/7
1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow
Im awaiting my kit for my D4.
Have put Tims gear in 3 vehicles,the D4 will be the fourth.
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
Totally agree with Andy and Baz,
I've had Traxide kit in my last 2 Land Rovers and recently installed a dual battery kit in the D4.
You will not get better assistance from any vendor and Tim's product is outstanding.
I may be wrong...but I believe here in Australia.... some Land Rover dealers are installing the Traxide kit as a dual battery option for clients... seems like a pretty good recommendation that they work..
Mark
Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most![]()
2015 TDV6 D4.... the latest project... Llams, Traxide, Icom 455, Tuffant Kimberleys and Mofos.... so far.
2012 SDV6 SE D4 with some stuff... gone...
2003 D2a TD5...gone...
2000 D2 V8...gone...
https://bymark.photography
Hi cecilh,
I would also endorse the previous three comments re Traxide (drivesafe).
Recently I had fitted to my D3 the usi-160 after problems with both cranking & aux batteries. Not had a problem since.
You'd be hard pressed to find a better vendor or product(s) in my view. I'm a dummy when it comes to this stuff & Tim had the patience of Job when plied with seemingly basic questions from me about the operation of the batteries and charging system.
Steve
Another very happy fan of The Traxide DB kit - simply awesome. Had one in my old D3 and have just put one in the new D4.
RickO
Agreed. usi 160
I have had the traxide kit for the last 3 yrs or so.
I recently had the main battery replaced under warranty.The local LR dealer won't use the Traxide system as they say the main battery should not drop below 12.5v.The traxide system lets it drop to 12v before isolating it.
Tims thoughts on this would be good.
Hi Paul and first off, your dealership, like any dealership, has mechanics in the workshop, not auto electricians, so they really have no idea of what the cranking battery can tolerate.
Next, and just to show how little notice your dealership takes, when it comes the cranking battery voltage levels. It is commonplace to have D3 and D4 cranking batteries with 12.2v on a regular basis.
NOTE, this is on vehicles without one of my dual battery systems.
Once one of my systems is installed, it is then commonplace ( after a short period of time ) for the same cranking batteries to have 12.5v or higher, when the vehicle is used around town.
As to discharging the battery down to 12.0v or 50%, this will have no effect on the battery and all modern vehicles can be started with cranking battery’s at 20% or 11.58v.
So taking the cranking battery down to 50% poses no potential problem what so ever.
Now for some battery facts.
The CCA rating of a cranking battery is constant from 100% State of Charge ( SoC ) down to 40% SoC ( 11.9v ). So even at 50% SoC ( 12.0v ) you still have the full CCA rating of the battery available for starting your vehicle.
Because my isolator allows the auxiliary battery to back discharge into the cranking battery, your cranking battery is always going to be in a higher state of charge than it would be in a D3 or D4 not equipped with one of my systems.
To validate this point, when the D3 and RRS were first fitted with displays, and error messaging, I had a number of customers, who had been having problems with continual messages of “ Low Battery, Start Motor” and a number of dealerships, including yours, could not fix the problem, even when these new vehicles had their new batteries replaced with another new battery.
But with in a week to three weeks ( depending on use of the vehicle ) of fitting one of my dual battery systems, the messages stopped and never returned.
So there is actually plenty of evidence that my systems solve charging problems that Land Rover can not solve!
Hope this answers your question Paul.
Rather than hijack cecilh's thread, I have moved this to a separate thread.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread...26#post2233326
Just as a point of interest, if you folks have the time, and a digital multi meter, can you measure the voltage of your cranking battery, at the battery terminals, to see what they are being charged to.
Please allow at least 12 hours from the last time the motor was on, as this allows the battery to settle to close to it’s actual SoC voltage level.
Note, this is a request for both those who have my dual battery systems fitted and those who do not.
It would be interesting to get some independent feedback, to see what the real SoC of cranking batteries are.
Thanks in advance, Tim.
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