Reply With QuoteEarly D3s (possibly 05/06) are different to later models but from there on the D3 and D4 have the same mounts and are therefore interchangeable. I fitted 2009 D3s to my D4 then Delphi D3s prior to the set of current D4s.
Master
No part numbers, still have a few years to see if koni get their act together reliably ... If not then when mine get floaty again I'll have some investigation to do.
Swaggie
Early D3s (possibly 05/06) are different to later models but from there on the D3 and D4 have the same mounts and are therefore interchangeable. I fitted 2009 D3s to my D4 then Delphi D3s prior to the set of current D4s.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Master
SupporterDon't think I will be waitng a few years!
Mine is pretty floaty and bouncy now so as soon as I can afford the parts & install costs I'll be having them done. Too many other bills at the moment though.
Sounds like about an $1800 job with parts supplied by me.
Graeme, is it an easy diy job to do?
Originally Posted by Graeme
Swaggie
It should be easy enough for anyone accustomed to DIY motor mechanics, taking appropriate steps for working safely on an air-sprung vehicle.
I suggest replacing the rear's first as their access is better for discovering what's involved. Removing front top mount nuts on my 3.0 D4 was rather slow the first time because a heat-shield bracket mounted under 2 of the nuts made it difficult to access one of the nuts, but made a lot easier for subsequent R&R by refitting the bracket under only the closest nut and hooking the other hole over the top of the 2nd stud after the nut was fitted. My ratchet ring spanner was put to good use on these nuts. Care is needed to not kink or twist the air-lines and when refitting its connector be sure that the thread is straight, not cross-threaded. Tighten the bottom bolts once the suspension is at normal height to prevent undue bush distortion.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Master
SupporterDo they need a torque setting? Any sort of compression to remove like some struts?
Assume you have to access the top mounting point in the cabin by removing stuff??
Master
SupporterForgot to ask. Wheel alignment required afterwards?
Swaggie
Access is from behind the wheels. IIRC LR advocate removing the front liner but it takes a long time to remove the wheel-arch flares, headlights and all the screws for very little advantage so I don't remove the liners.
I'm sure the 3 top mount nuts and lower single bolt and nut will have specified torque settings although I didn't bother to track them down.
The air-springs loose all their pressure when the air is released, which I do by slackening the pipe nuts only until air starts to escape then allow it all escape before going further. I remove the 20A suspension fuse before starting.
No alignment is needed because the assemblies are independent of the suspension arm attachments - just don't inadvertently knock and break the height sensor.
Edit: Fitting instructions can be downloaded from the Koni distributor's site through the vehicle selection facility.
http://www.toperformance.com.au/catalogue_fs.html
or more specifically from here [ame]http://findershop.koni.com/files/pdf/2100-4069-manual.pdf[/ame]
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
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