Installing a false floor

**wbowner** · 27th February 2015, 04:54 PM

I have been looking at ways to set up my fridge slide in the back of the D4. I built a frame using the cube connect tubing but after finishing it my wife complained saying it made the fridge two high. I had ran out of bullets so thought I would use a false floor instead and bolt the slide to it.

I decided that the best way to hold the floor down was to bolt it to the holes from the existing anchor points. I was going to use 8mm eye bolts so I would still have some anchor points.

Fixing the false floor is not that easy, for me at least, as you have to line up the 4 holes very accurately. I doubt I could just measure it and get it right.

Well today I had a go at it.

I have done this before in another car and made a mess of it so was a bit concerned over this one.

I got a couple of 8mm bolts and cut the heads off them then I screwed them in, leaving just a little bit above the surface of the carpet. I lined up my floor and gave a it a firm tap with a hammer which leaves a mark on the other side where to drill you hole.

I did not do 4 at once, I did the back two then did the front two. Before moving onto the front two I inserted the eye bolts on the back two to keep the floor stable.

A hint, leave the only anchor point in under the false floor , minus the bolt of course, as it acts as a good guide for when you put in the eye bolts.

It all tuned out to be a lot easier than I thought and I am sure many have done it before but for me it was a worry.

I still have lots to do but this was the most difficult bit.

Richard

**Muskie** · 27th February 2015, 05:37 PM

i did something similar, instead i used red ink.

**wbowner** · 27th February 2015, 05:45 PM

Originally Posted by Muskie

i did something similar, instead i used red ink.

I initially put some ink on the top of the bolt but found the mark was enough.

Richard

**l00kin4** · 3rd March 2015, 07:43 AM

Hi Richard,

I'm sure you have it in hand but be sure to remember the angle of the lower tailgate door means you need more height for the fridge slider to clear it. Below pic with 2 19mm flooring offcuts - straight edge just clears the tailgate. I found that my Waeco slider also had some extra clearance at the point it crosses the tailgate edge (see second pic) so you can probably get away with 35mm or so depending on which slider you use. 40mm is safe though

Hope that helps.
David

**wbowner** · 3rd March 2015, 08:40 AM

Originally Posted by l00kin4

Hi Richard,

I'm sure you have it in hand but be sure to remember the angle of the lower tailgate door means you need more height for the fridge slider to clear it. Below pic with 2 19mm flooring offcuts - straight edge just clears the tailgate. I found that my Waeco slider also had some extra clearance at the point it crosses the tailgate edge (see second pic) so you can probably get away with 35mm or so depending on which slider you use. 40mm is safe though

Hope that helps.
David

Yep I noted that awhile ago when I first tried the slide.
I ended up with a rise of over 45mm (3x 15mm ply plus 4 layers of carpet).

I have a 15mm ply false floor with carpet folded under (i.e. 2 layers) and made a separate stand of two pieces of 15mm ply which is carpeted and folded under (the other two layers of carpet).

I found 40mm was not enough.

On another note. My carpeting is a bit of a mess. I finally worked out how to do it and look neat or neater at least on a piece no one will see.

Richard

**l00kin4** · 3rd March 2015, 10:20 AM

OK. Good one Richard.

Re carpet I'm no expert that's for sure. I actually left the underside of my base bare so that the ribbing of the decking that I used to increase the height provides a little extra lateral grip. Mine is only fixed by the tiedown bolts on one side and straps in the centre so not as well anchored as yours will be with 4 bolts through it.

I used carpet from Bunnings fixed with liquid nails - seems to grab quite quickly and looks ok. The carpet is a surprisingly good match. Cutting the carpet at the corners is tricky though.

The little hols I cut out are for the bolts to go through freely to the captive t-nuts on the under side. I like those as I think they provide a stronger fixing than screws and you don't need access to them as you would with a nut on the underside.

I'll be interested to see photos of your project as it progresses.

Cheers,
David

**~Rich~** · 3rd March 2015, 10:27 AM

Pack 20mm on the most forward edge and 40mm on back edge.

**wbowner** · 3rd March 2015, 11:56 AM

Hi
I didn't get photos during the process but here are a few to date. I have a few more things to add. I have added a flap at the end (seat end) so I can get underneath. It can't be opened unless the seats are pushed forward a bit. I did this by replacing the floor board at the back of the seat. The rest of my false floor sits on top of the old floor and the bit I added all held down by the tie downs i replaced with eye bolts. The fridge slide mounts to the stand using nutserts like you are using.

Richard

**l00kin4** · 3rd March 2015, 12:41 PM

I like that flap idea. A side question - are those nets in the side of your cargo area LR originals ?

**wbowner** · 3rd March 2015, 01:19 PM

Originally Posted by l00kin4

I like that flap idea. A side question - are those nets in the side of your cargo area LR originals ?

Yes they came with car which I got new

Richard

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