What is the reason for not using the negative post. I understand it is to avoid a spark near volatile gases, is this correct?
I find it strange that my MY14 Owners Handbook states on P207 that when connecting jump leads, connect the positive to the battery and the negative to a suitable earth point at least 0.5m from the battery (not the negative terminal as we all should know), but the very next section regarding 'connecting a starting aid' (starting aid or slave battery) it states connect the positive to the positive battery terminal and the negative to the ground terminal (negative terminal) of the battery?
Is this a typo or am I reading it incorrectly?
Mind you on P208 it also states to disconnect and remove the battery from the vehicle for charging purposes?
The Ctek MXS10 looks the goods, with an Ingress Protection rating of IP65 and supplied standard with the permanent connection lead.
Cheers, Mungus.
_________________
MY14D4HSE, Nara Bronze, E-Diff, Vision Assist, Surround Cameras, LLAMS, ProSpeed Sliders/Compressor plate, Mitch Hitch,
ARB Summit Bar, Runva 11XP, Traxide D3-DU, GOE Comp. Rims, D697 265/60R18, Rijidij RWC, Fyrlyts.
What is the reason for not using the negative post. I understand it is to avoid a spark near volatile gases, is this correct?
By all means get a Defender. If you get a good one, you'll be happy. If you get a bad one, you'll become a philosopher.
apologies to Socrates
Clancy MY15 110 Defender
Clancy's gone to Queensland Rovering, and we don't know where he are
The same reason for connecting the positive first and disconnecting the negative first - to keep sparks away from the battery area.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Apart from volatile gases, battery and fuel brake lines, does it also have something to do with the damage to the Battery Monitoring System which is inline with the negative post connection?
An extract from a Topix service message - 'When charging a battery (both primary and secondary) with a BMS (battery monitoring system) fitted, the earth from the charger must be connected to a suitable chassis or engine earth (check Topix for appropriate location). This allows the BMS to see the current going into the battery. However when using a diagnostic charger from Midtronics such as GR1, GRX GR8(110 volts)this connection process can cause an incorrect battery analysis due to the extra resistance in the wiring when connected to a chassis or engine earth.
Cheers, Mungus.
_________________
MY14D4HSE, Nara Bronze, E-Diff, Vision Assist, Surround Cameras, LLAMS, ProSpeed Sliders/Compressor plate, Mitch Hitch,
ARB Summit Bar, Runva 11XP, Traxide D3-DU, GOE Comp. Rims, D697 265/60R18, Rijidij RWC, Fyrlyts.
Thanks guys. Repo have the 5amp ctek charger for $99 in their catalogue at the moment so I'll see if I can get one of those.
I leave mine connected,no issue at all,but this is for top up.
If they were both flat,i would do one then the other as the charger probably would not have the capacity to do the two at once.
I have a Traxide DBS and charge the aux battery through the Anderson plug at the rear. Allows me th charge and still lock the vehicle.
As long as the batteries aren't isolated, both batteries are being charged together, as I understand things.
Same thing I reckon if you charge the main battery, if not isolated from aux then both will charge.
Ron
2013 D4 SDV6 SE
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