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Thread: New Jack option.

  1. #91
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    I carry 3 jacks on all my trips!
    Factory one.

    A Mercedes Sprinter hydraulic jack which is located ( jacked in) under the front edge of my drawer unit so it's easy to get to anytime.

    An exhaust jack which is packed under my drawer unit.

    I also carry a 300 x 300 x 18mm ply jacking plate.

    I prefer using the hydraulic jack but have used the exhaust jack in the Simpson.
    It's a bit fiddy getting it to jack straight up without it wanting to spear out either way. You also need to carry an exhaust bung for the other exhaust pipe you are not using. ( Plumber fitting available at Plumbers Supplies)

    So order of preference is:
    1 - Hydraulic
    2 - Exhaust
    3 - Factory ( last resort only)
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  2. #92
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    My jack attempt failed. Was hoping to be able to go off the chassis. Anybody keen to modify my attachment to fit the hole in the arms instead?

    Tried lowering the body onto the jack going from offroad to access and opening the door but this was the result.

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russrobe View Post
    My jack attempt failed. Was hoping to be able to go off the chassis. Anybody keen to modify my attachment to fit the hole in the arms instead?

    Tried lowering the body onto the jack going from offroad to access and opening the door but this was the result.
    Sent cremorne an email to see if they can modify one.

  4. #94
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    I called into Rovertech yesterday,they had what looked to be a mini 2.5t trolley jack in a carry case,I think it was $130+GST,the card on it said a must for D3/D4/RRS owners.
    Andrew
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  5. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russrobe View Post
    My jack attempt failed. Was hoping to be able to go off the chassis. Anybody keen to modify my attachment to fit the hole in the arms instead?
    Not quite sure what's happening for you Russ.
    Did you start at offroad height when jacking from chassis rail?

    I found the Omega jack would only just lift the wheel off the ground when starting from offroad height.

    Offroad height is the key point here.

    This was improved by using a jacking plate and wooden block but it's still a lot of extension on the jack.

    There's far less extension required when jacking from the suspension arm but that is still jacking upwards.


    For either method starting at offroad height helps, although less important if using the suspension arm.

    Anyway, I'm not sure why you lowered the vehicle on to the jack? When using the suspension arm, the self levelling function kicks in with small corrections as you jack and eventually this gives you the ground clearance required.

    You mention modification of the head but it looks like the standard round head in your photos?

    Cheers,
    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
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  6. #96
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    Ah true, for some reason, after trying to jack up at offroad height it ended up on far too great and angle(the jack itself) so i thought i could reduce it by lowering the extended end and lowering the suspension onto the jack, opening the door before it went into extend mode and jacking up.

    I reckon i was pretty close to getting the wheel off the ground. If i can get a 10mm plate underneath i'll hopefully be there..

    Ohh for the head i meant mine is the standard one and i should get mine modified....

    By too much of an angle i mean there was a 3-5mm gap between the jacking side of the base plate and the ground.

  7. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russrobe View Post
    Ah true, for some reason, after trying to jack up at offroad height it ended up on far too great and angle(the jack itself) so i thought i could reduce it by lowering the extended end and lowering the suspension onto the jack, opening the door before it went into extend mode and jacking up.

    I reckon i was pretty close to getting the wheel off the ground. If i can get a 10mm plate underneath i'll hopefully be there..

    Ohh for the head i meant mine is the standard one and i should get mine modified....

    By too much of an angle i mean there was a 3-5mm gap between the jacking side of the base plate and the ground.
    Ok now I understand but I don't reckon that will work (as you found out).

    I agree, the angle is a concern. It can be seen in my photo too.
    You have to try and "pick" a position that will counteract the inclination as you get to full extension.
    This is the main reason I prefer the suspension arm.

    The standard jack head will fit into the suspension arm recess quite well but doesn't have a pin to engage into the chassis rail.
    This is what the adapter Andrew's son fabricated for a few of us achieves.

    So if you intend to use the suspension arm you won't need a modified head.

    Hope that makes sense.

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
    Link to my D4 Build Thread
    D3 2005 V8 Petrol
    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  8. #98
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    Ahhh i see, i started jacking it from under the suspension arm on a third attempt but stopped after looking at how much of the head is actually touching steel... Only about half of it... Thought you had somehow modified it to fit that recess better. Hmm.

  9. #99
    Tombie Guest
    If using the arm...

    Set off-road height.
    Place jack in position
    Go into vehicle and select a lower height
    Vehicle will lower and lift the wheel off the ground..

  10. #100
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    Is the idea to place the jack as close to wheel as possible, so at one end of the arm?
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