Thread: Brake pad wear sensors

I have bypassed mine. No problems. I think the light comes on way too early. My pads had plenty of meat left when the light came on. I did another 7k kms or so and when I changed them there was still plenty left so I decided to bypass.

I got the sensors with all the other brake parts from buycarparts.com.uk. There were a few different brands to choose from.

Originally Posted by Dagilmo

I have bypassed mine. No problems. I think the light comes on way too early. My pads had plenty of meat left when the light came on. I did another 7k kms or so and when I changed them there was still plenty left so I decided to bypass.

I got the sensors with all the other brake parts from buycarparts.com.uk. There were a few different brands to choose from.

So how did you do it ? Is it as simple as just disconnecting the sensor ? Or did you have to access the EMS.

Cheers Ean

Originally Posted by Ean Austral

So how did you do it ? Is it as simple as just disconnecting the sensor ? Or did you have to access the EMS.

Cheers Ean

I believe they work by cutting the wire when the pad gets too low so disconnecting the sensor will just make the light come on. You need to wire a permanent loop in the sensor so it never loses current.

Originally Posted by the_preacher1973

I believe they work by cutting the wire when the pad gets too low so disconnecting the sensor will just make the light come on. You need to wire a permanent loop in the sensor so it never loses current.

Exactly, just cut the sensor off near the connector and short the wires in your preferred manner.

The two sensors (FL & RR) are connected in series from Instrument Cluster to ground and open circuit at approx. 75% wear.

Originally Posted by Mungus

The two sensors (FL & RR) are connected in series from Instrument Cluster to ground and open circuit at approx. 75% wear.

Ok thanks, whats the best way to short them.

Cheers Ean

I can't remember exactly but I generally solder all electrical connections and heat shrink. So I im pretty sure that's what I would have done.

If it were me, for a more permanent fix I would locate each of the two serviceable connectors and remove the sensor lead side, then dissemble the plug, rewiring with a single wire link, or cut the wires a few inches from the sensor lead plug and solder together inline, taping with self amalgamating tape and sleeving with heat shrink. Either way you could still refit new sensor leads to the untouched sockets at a later date.
Or you could be rough and twist and BP connect, or twist and solder and pvc tape. Up to you really.