Thread: Traxide battery tray

Originally Posted by LRD414

This point is where I found the instructions confusing. I read it as one loom needed to be left to run under the new tray. This should not be done. Anyway, all wiring is now run along the edge of the cranking battery box, safe out of harms way.

The headlight removal was included in the instructions from Tim. Made the tray fitting much easier. Perhaps it's an update to the instructions.

Just noticed Brian's battery clamp is a much better version than supplied with mine. Mine is plastic and the j-bolts much longer ones. Perhaps this is why some people have the bolts hit the bonnet.

Scott

Yes - my kit sat in the shed for about 2 years before I installed it just prior to Melrose this year. Tim told me that he had issued updated instructions since mine - but I'm not sure if it would have helped me in any case. I have an ARB bulbar, and I don't think I can remove the headlights with that in place.

Surprised at the difference in battery clamp supplied though, given that mine is not the latest version of Tim's kit. I had noticed the difference in your photo.

HiBMKal, that tray was the one I originally supplied with my kits but the importer changed the shape of the hold down bracket and the trays fitted location.

The changes meant that both the bracket and the tray would rub against the plastic reservoir if not fitted perfectly.

So I developed my own, and made them out of stainless, instead of the original painted steel one.

As to the ?J? bolts. They will just touch the insulation on the underside of the bonnet but go nowhere near the actual bonnet. So there is no need to trim them down.

Originally Posted by RHS58

I shortened them too for the same reason.
Did it myself as I couldn't afford the fees of an orthopaedic surgeon.

Ron

Yeah ditto. Got serious and used the angle grinder ☺

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Orthopaedic surgeons are more carpenters than doctors!

....

He's always been a yachtie so instead of choosing medicine, he ticked naval architecture and got a Navy scholarship. But after two years of mechanical engineering, he decided he wanted medicine. But because he had not ticked #1 as being medicine, they would not let him into medicine, despite his marks being way above medicine's entry. He switched to science, ending up with a masters science degree, and took off a year to earn some money to keep him going. Eventually he got into medicine. All because he ticked the wrong box at 17 years of age.

But he reckons his two years of mechanical engineering has made him a much better orthopaedic surgeon. He's certainly good with a saw and a file, got it done straight, I'ver not had to contact the AMA about any complications.

Yesterday I did a 2nd Traxide install to Dad's D4. I thought it worth showing a photo of how we mounted the wiring loom out of the way.
Holes were drilled into the battery box to make use of the factory clips in the loom. Clips were inserted with a bit of silicon for sealing.



The smaller of the two looms (not shown) was shifted out of the way to the left of this photo and tied to another factory loom. It is the unused fuel burning heater loom that includes two plugs with blanking plates. It could have also been run along the battery box but that looked a bit congested (small gap to aux battery).

Everything else was as per the instructions. The other loose cable in the photo is just the UHF aerial cable that was run at the same time as Traxide.

Cheers,
Scott

That looks good Scott. Much tidier than my effort of just laying the loom along the top edge of the battery tray and squeezing the battery in next to it.

You wouldn't have to try too hard to convince anyone that it was done like that in the factory.

I recently completed mine, and with that smaller FBH loom I just covered it with split tube and ran it under the battery tray anyway, per the Traxide installation notes, leaving the unused plugs in situ on the inner guard.
Brilliant kit, so rewarding to install as other have said many times. I did mine in stages, taking it very slowly and clocking about 8-9 hours of very satisfying effort. Big thanks to Scott, Tim, and so many others on here for their recommendations and contributions on here!

If this battery fits here in a D4 is there any reason why the same could not be done on a 2009 RRS