Thread: Towing with a D3

Answers in bold below

Originally Posted by Trngia

I have seen a lot of posts for consideration when towing with a D3 so wanted to try and bring it together here to ensure I have everything covered. I am looking at purchasing a camping trailer and this will be my first with towing using a D3 so pretty new to this (be gentle :-)). As I understand it I need to consider the following...

1 - Adapter to change the UK electrics to use Australian connector. I have one of these however I am led to believe there may be issues with LED Lights on the trailer and the D3 recognising a trailer is connected and possibly flashing light issues. Should I be preparing with an LED module or just give it a go and see how it works. Is this an intermittent issue with some people having an issue and others not? If it is required then any advice on a module I can buy that would do the job?

You will definitely be having problems with a D3 and LED and you will need an adaptor or modifications. As far as I know there are three options, an inline adaptor which I have and you can buy on eBay, it works fine but can be a pain to find a place to strap it on, I have mine cable tied to the trailer drawbar but I have already lost one out near Birdsville. There is also an option for a switchable module you mount in the car, I think this is definitely the best option but requires some more installation than the inline option. Finally I believe you can install a resistor in the trailer lighting circuit

2 - There will be an Anderson connector on the trailer to charge the batteries through a battery management system. Can I use the white socket by the tow hitch to do this? Does anyone know how to make a cable for this connector to an Anderson Socket?

The consensus here seems to be that you won't get enough current through the white D3 connector even if you could get an adaptor and I haven't heard of anyone getting one even though many have asked the question. A Traxide dual battery kit with rear Anderson plug is the ideal solution but you may not want to go to that extent, otherwise you probably need to run new heavier cable to the back and add an Anderson connector

3 - Electric Brakes - So the trailer will come with electric brakes, what do I need to consider here. Do I need to use an electric brake controller module. When I purchased the D3 it had one fitted which I removed as it was in a bad position so kept hitting my knee on it. All the cables are there to plug back in again although I don't know a lot about it or how it works etc.

You will need to reinstall a controller, you may be lucky and be able to reuse the cabling that's there, if you remember the brand try and get another of the same brand

4 - With the built in trailer assist on the D3 do I need to consider anything or does this just work once a trailer is detected?

D3 doesn't have trailer assist only D4 sorry.

5 - The tow hitch is likely to be an OzHitch, any advice here? Was planning on just using the OEM detachable tow fitting and then changing the ball out to attach the OzHitch.

Should be fine, but you may find the OEM hitch is too low, you may need to get an adjustable hitch arm or consider installing a Mitch hitch but give it a try with the standard first and see what you think

Lots of questions, just trying to make sure I have considered everything here and what I need to prepare for :-).

Cheers,

Rich.

Fantastic, thanks Andrew....

A resistor won't work in the light circuit - you'll need an adaptor. If you don't the car will see the trailer with the resistors, but will still flash the lights. Do a search of the forum and you'll find what you're look for
I fitted a permanent one to out D3 - works a treat. You must remember to throw the switch with ANY trailer, not just LED, but when you do a light check and the blinkers don't work you'll remember
Redarc do a remote head trailer brake controller you can fit nearly anywhere. If you're committed to using the old unit by all means do, but the Redarc is way neater. As I understand it does proportional braking as well as a fixed voltage, depending on how you program it.
Finally, I'd certainly fit the Traxide system. They can supply exactly what you need with first class instructions an a few hours sees it in. If you're putting dual batteries in the car as well it's really a no brainer to go Traxide - it won't cost much more than the individual components, you'll save hours on the install and it fits. Great phone backup too
Good luck!
Cheers
Matt

Hi Matt, I haven't tried the resistor so you may well be right, but just trying to understand why the resistor wouldn't work? Surely the resistor just replicates the resistance you get with an incandescent bulb and the D3 shouldnt be able to tell the difference?

Thanks, just been reading the 23 or so pages on LED lights Think I will look to buy an inline adaptor as Andrew has suggested.

Rich, I have travelled the same learning curve as you and you're on the money with things to consider as listed.

I got an inline module same as Andrew for the LED issue. I put some non-slip matting under it on the draw bar before zip tieing. It's been very solid so far over some rough terrain. I think the brand is Linear.

I went Traxide dual battery too, which provided the rear Anderson connection with the kit. I think you'll find the dual battery useful but Tim may do you up just the rear connection part alone.

The knee space is one reason to get a Redarc brake controller with remote head. Very neat. Search for threads on Redarc Towpro. Also, there is an excellent sticky thread regarding the install requirements for any controller. Not sure how much you'll want to trust the old wiring unless you can trace what was put in.

Agree with Andrew on the hitch. I went Mitch Hitch and it's exactly right for the trailer draw bar height but the OEM can work ok, with some loss of ground clearance.

Cheers,
Scott