Thread: timing belt change

I done mine at home, no real issues. Took me 2 days as getting the starter out took ages and the crank shaft pulley didn't want to come off in a hurry, and every other step seemed to take ages pulling apart. I also made up a tool to hold the fan hub pulley so that took a couple of hours as well. It all went back together much faster than removal.
All up cost me around $950 doing it myself. I put on a new alternator belt, replaced the coolant, new oil pump casing, crank pulley bolt, new timing belt idlers, timing belt, and rear fuel pump belt

Originally Posted by shanegtr

I done mine at home, no real issues. Took me 2 days as getting the starter out took ages and the crank shaft pulley didn't want to come off in a hurry, and every other step seemed to take ages pulling apart. I also made up a tool to hold the fan hub pulley so that took a couple of hours as well. It all went back together much faster than removal.
All up cost me around $950 doing it myself. I put on a new alternator belt, replaced the coolant, new oil pump casing, crank pulley bolt, new timing belt idlers, timing belt, and rear fuel pump belt

Shane, did you basically pull the entire nose of the car off to get access to the area? Also, do you have a parts list including numbers?

Thanks

The body does not to come off , if your handy with the spanners it is not an insurmountable job . Any competent workshop should be able to knock over in less than a day , if yours is the early D3 td6 2007/8 era it is advisable change out the oil pump ,it is not a big deal to do when the belts are done.

Originally Posted by winaje

Shane, did you basically pull the entire nose of the car off to get access to the area? Also, do you have a parts list including numbers?

Thanks

There is a step by step tutorial on the disco3uk site. Think its from disco Mikey. It does both HP fuel pump and the timing belt. I even think he updated it for the oul pump casing as well.

Cheers Ean

Pretty certain "body off" for rear timing belts is a furphy.
Have had mine done twice now (all front and rear belts, tensioners and idlers), and nobody has mentioned having to remove the body to do it.
Seems the rear belts/tensioners do require a skilled tech with some Houdini type maneuvers to make the change.
Have found that cheapest option was to order all parts from Brit Parts (UK) online (with water pump), and then get my service guy to fit all. That way fitting new water pump doesn't add too much to overall cost. They may have upgraded oil pump housing as well.
And if your oil pump housing hasn't been upgraded, certainly get it done.

The 3ltr in the D4 is a body off as the FP belt ( rear belt ) is timed , that's what I have been told by several mechanics and am sure it was on the UK site that I read the same thing.


D3 FP belt ( rear belt ) from everything I have read can be done body on , just need to be double jointed and be able to work blind.


Cheers Ean

The WSM does not indicate that the 3.0's rear belt has to be changed with the body off but perhaps in practice it is quite difficult to change with the body on. A special tool to lock the HPFP is required though.

Originally Posted by winaje

Shane, did you basically pull the entire nose of the car off to get access to the area? Also, do you have a parts list including numbers?

Thanks

Only need to remove the air intake pipe and top half of the fan shroud and the fan - theres plently of room once that stuff is out of the way.
Parts I used and rounded prices:
RO-PQS500370 Alternator belt $81 (I could have gotten a belt cheaper but I didnt get one before starting the job like the rest of the parts - when I removed the old belt I decided not to reuse it)
Coolant- $50 Did a drain and replace while coolant lines needed to be split
LR002458 Crank shaft bolt $35
LR013487 Oil pump housing $225
LR016655 Timing belt kit Front $280
1311306 Timing belt idler lower front $42
1324390-A Timing belt rear $125

Timing pin kit was from ebay for under $50 from memory