ARB CMK Compressor/ Traxide setup

**l00kin4** · 17th August 2016, 08:48 AM

Originally Posted by D4206

I do actually wonder if well nuts ( M6 Rubber Well Nut 16mm & Stainless Bolt 20mm Windscreen Fairing Motorcycle) might be easier and work well but I'm sure the brains trust here will give an opinion on this.

Hope that helps

David

Hi David,

Thanks for the reply. How do the well nuts work? I don't see how they are fixed in place?

Cheers,
Bill[/QUOTE]

Exact same principle as the rivnut/nutsert, just easier to compress / engage. Could be argued that it handles vibration better too possibly. Not suitable to secure anything too heavy I think but I'd say ok for this application.

I've seen good reports people using them to fix all sorts of things in 4wd's with good long term results. One report of these securing a 50l Waeco fridge! They are also easier to remove. I'd definitely say if going for nutserts, use alloy as they will be a lot easier to compress. In either case a snug hole is a must.

David

**l00kin4** · 22nd August 2016, 07:49 AM

I wasn't quite happy with the height of the air outlet so I decided to make up a new bracket, this time with two different heights for the air outlet and the switch. Gave it a quick coat of paint too.

Access to the coupling and the switch is a bit easier now.

David

**D4206** · 22nd August 2016, 02:39 PM

Looks very good.. Is the bracket attached to the battery box? Mine hasn't arrived yet.. So not sure how it's configured.
Cheers,
Bill

**l00kin4** · 22nd August 2016, 03:05 PM

Hi Bill,
Yes, bolts through Traxide battery tray. I used 3 countersunk M5x16 bolts (machine screws) with nyloc nuts.
Bracket shape and rough dimensions in pic but will depend on which air fitting used - the bulkhead fitting I used to screw the coupling into sits about 20mm above the bracket.
I also added a P clip to hold the hose about 50mm from the bottom and the back of the bracket: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/321545728170
Let me know if more pics will help - I didn't take as many as usual as it was getting cold and dark when I was finishing, but I do have some others showing different angles.
David

**l00kin4** · 22nd August 2016, 03:17 PM

Pic more from the side

**l00kin4** · 23rd August 2016, 12:44 PM

Originally Posted by D4206

Hi David,
I'm about to start an install and like the way you have done this. Can you provide some more info on how you fixed the base plate? Looks like it has 3 fixing points. Did you have spacers setting the aluminium plate off the base level of the battery box. I'm assuming there is some clearance underneath to allow for the fixing bolts of the actual compressor and that you fixed to compressor to the base plate first, then fixed the base plate to the car? How do the nutserts work? Did you just drill into the plastic base of the battery box?
Cheers,
Bill

Bill,
a couple of extra pics of where I put the nutsert and well nut holes. Also showing the base plate and where I had to trim another piece off the edge.
David

**D4206** · 23rd August 2016, 09:31 PM

Originally Posted by l00kin4

Bill,
a couple of extra pics

Hi David, thanks for the extra pics.. They are great. In the photo with the compressor in its location I can't see the front fixing..I'm assuming it's obscured by the cabling.. But that the bolt was able to be installed with the compressor already mounted to the base plate. Also assume that you only used the supplied base plate that comes with the compressor as a template?
Cheers,
Bill

**l00kin4** · 24th August 2016, 07:38 AM

Originally Posted by D4206

Hi David, thanks for the extra pics.. They are great. In the photo with the compressor in its location I can't see the front fixing..I'm assuming it's obscured by the cabling.. But that the bolt was able to be installed with the compressor already mounted to the base plate. Also assume that you only used the supplied base plate that comes with the compressor as a template?
Cheers,
Bill

Hi Bill,
All of the screws are positioned so they can be fixed with the compressor already fixed to the base plate. The screws towards the firewall and the middle one are easily accessible. The front one is slightly more difficult but still fine with a screwdriver. Pics below. Yes, spot on- I only used the supplied base plate as a template for the holes.
David

Rear fixing

Front fixing

**D4206** · 29th August 2016, 08:18 PM

Fitted the Compressor into the engine bay today. Took it slowly and am happy with the result. Thanks to the advice received from this forum.

Then I pulled out the wiring loom from the box....boy what a pile of spagetti. I understand that it was made for use with airlockers, but it would have been nice if the instructions provided by ARB also had a simple diagram showing how to wire it up on its own. I contemplated pulling the un-used wires out of the loom, but upon investigation its not as simple as I thought.

Would appreciate some advice on the following:

1. is the relay still required?

2.does the pressure switch need to be installed...I wouldn't have thought it was needed?

I'm thinking I'll run the power supply cables directly to the main battery and switching cables to the switch which will be located adjacent the aus battery as in the post above.

cheers,
bill

**l00kin4** · 29th August 2016, 09:33 PM

Originally Posted by D4206

Fitted the Compressor into the engine bay today. Took it slowly and am happy with the result. Thanks to the advice received from this forum.

Then I pulled out the wiring loom from the box....boy what a pile of spagetti. I understand that it was made for use with airlockers, but it would have been nice if the instructions provided by ARB also had a simple diagram showing how to wire it up on its own. I contemplated pulling the un-used wires out of the loom, but upon investigation its not as simple as I thought.

Would appreciate some advice on the following:

1. is the relay still required?

2.does the pressure switch need to be installed...I wouldn't have thought it was needed?

I'm thinking I'll run the power supply cables directly to the main battery and switching cables to the switch which will be located adjacent the aus battery as in the post above.

cheers,
bill

Hi Bill,

Looks good. Nice one.

1. Yes, you still need the relay as the compressor will draw a large current when running. The relay isolates your switching circuit from your supply circuit so your switch only needs to handle the small current to drive the relay rather than the massive current to run the compressor;

2. Yes, you need the pressure switch to stop the compressor running continuously and bursting something!

To save running it across the engine bay, you can pick up the earth stud in the battery box but it is a bit fiddly to access. I'll see if I have a photo of the position.

The loom is a bit much isn't it. I did actually strip out all the superfluous locker wires from the loom but it was a bit of a time consuming exercise. It is much tidier though.

One other thing I should have mentioned before (sorry) that you might want to consider is to put a couple of extra holes in the base plate to tie down your cabling.

Cheers,
David

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