Thread: Radio problems

Peter,
Have you tried a "hard reset" ** to bypass the issue? Without updating the ICE software, battery charging software or replacing the battery - which are 3 possible fixes available - the only other option would be to bypass the problem. That is what the hard reset does. In other words, the issue could reoccur at some time in the future, but it would allow you to use the iPod now, at the inconvenience of updating time, date, radio stations, etc.

** See FAQs for details on how to perform a hard reset:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...4-rrs-faq.html

Cheers,
Rob

Originally Posted by jonesy63

Peter,
Have you tried a "hard reset" ** to bypass the issue?...

No I haven't, but that was something that I was looking for to save me having to go to the dealer and leaving the car for a day. We are currently on a trip in Melbourne and can't afford the time to leave the car for a whole day to be checked out. So if this works it would be very convenient.
However the hard reset process looks a bit rough - won't any fuses be blown? Or do you just kiss the terminals together for a fraction of a second?
Edit: I see that there is no power going through the cables, so no spark
Peter

What is required is to touch / hold together is the battery leads after they have been removed from the battery. Basically what you are trying to achieve is to discharge any voltage / current that is held with the numerous electrical systems of the vehicle.

OK - I got out the multimeter and checked the battery and it was showing 12.4V. Maybe a Ctek diagnostic tool will disclose more information about the condition of the battery, but at the moment it seems ok to me.

I then disconnected the leads going to the battery and joined them together with a long thin round file for about 10 seconds. Put it all back together again and - no difference, apart from having to re-set the radio stations.

I am now suspecting it is the actual radio that has a fault, which is a pain as we are 1,300 kms from home and the Melbourne dealer that I am booked in to will have to order a radio (or possibly a module for it) which will mean another visit to them to have it fitted. If it is the radio, then I may just wait until we get home in Port Macquarie and get the dealer there to fix it.

Originally Posted by pprass

OK - I got out the multimeter and checked the battery and it was showing 12.4V.

If you took that reading with the battery still connected then it sounds in line with figures that Tim (drivesafe) has posted previously as follows:

- If your cranking battery is good, you should see 12.7v in the OPEN CIRCUIT state, and about 12.4v and no lower with the ignition on but vehicle not running.
- If your cranking battery is on its last legs, you will get the OPEN CIRCUIT voltage less than 12.4v before you put a load on the battery and when you put a load on it, it will drop much lower.
- By disconnecting each battery's negative lead and leaving the batteries overnight before testing, you are now testing batteries in an OPEN CIRCUIT situation.

Scott

Originally Posted by pprass

OK - I got out the multimeter and checked the battery and it was showing 12.4V. Maybe a Ctek diagnostic tool will disclose more information about the condition of the battery, but at the moment it seems ok to me.

I then disconnected the leads going to the battery and joined them together with a long thin round file for about 10 seconds. Put it all back together again and - no difference, apart from having to re-set the radio stations.

I am now suspecting it is the actual radio that has a fault, which is a pain as we are 1,300 kms from home and the Melbourne dealer that I am booked in to will have to order a radio (or possibly a module for it) which will mean another visit to them to have it fitted. If it is the radio, then I may just wait until we get home in Port Macquarie and get the dealer there to fix it.

If you're taking it to a dealer I'd still take the opportunity to apply the KISS principle, and get them to hook up a new or known-good-condition battery before chucking out the radio.
I know you've said the battery's resting at 12.4 V but I've had auto electricians and dealer workshops tell me batteries are fine and then the car (not just Land Rovers) won't start two days later. Can't overstate how fickle they can be!!

Had the vehicle at the dealer's for half a day and after checking quite a few possibilities - including the battery and ND update, the fault was traced to a faulty head unit of the radio - LRO 40498.

Of course they didn't have one, so I will have to wait until we return to Port Macquarie in mid January to have it replaced.

That's 2 electronic items that have failed on a vehicle that we have had for 7 months - the auto wiper sensor and now the radio.

Peter