Reply With QuoteAndy hardest bit is removing original rods. Small flat screwdriver and use the spraylube you have. Be very careful not to break the link arm to the height sensor. Just take your time ☺. They are a fantastically simple bit of kit☺.
Jc
RoverLord
Any heads up for a first time installer of a set of Gordons secondhand rods????
Planing an early new year fishing trip which will involve a fair beach drive to get there.
Im thinking a play at home,then fitting the GOE rods on normal height then fitting the higher setting at the beach,850km from here.
I have a can of lube supplied by the previous owner.
First SERIOUS outing for mine,2 or 3 nites beach camping.There is a much newer D4 joining me,he is cheating with LLams gear
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
I made the 1 millionth AULRO post
Swaggie
Andy hardest bit is removing original rods. Small flat screwdriver and use the spraylube you have. Be very careful not to break the link arm to the height sensor. Just take your time ☺. They are a fantastically simple bit of kit☺.
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
TopicToaster
Fuse out, door open, OEM jack under the car to stop it from dropping (just in case). Spray with lube and then with a lot of fiddling around lever each one off the sensor arm.
Once fitted you can just reach in around the wheel to change the heights. Takes a minute.
Master
SubscriberCan I ask which fuse and lube please?Originally Posted by WhiteD3
ChatterBox
If you have a jack / car-stand under the car, there's no need to pull the fuse - the car will stop when it senses the jack.
Cheers,
Gordon
Master
I thought you only had to leave the door open and don't worry about the fuse! Is this not the case?
Super Moderator
SubscriberI reckon this is one of the most common misconceptions about the vehicle.
The door open must be combined with selection of a different suspension height in order to keep the suspension from adjusting/self-leveling.
So for example, with vehicle running select Off Road height when in Normal height and immediately open the door and keep it open. Same would be true if going from Normal to Access. The vehicle is waiting for all doors to be closed before continuing with the height change. Once you're happy, close the door and the previously selected height change will be completed.
Probably not the best thing to rely on when fiddling around with height rods but can be useful for trailer hitching.
Cheers,
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
ChatterBox
Opening a door will only freeze a user-requested height change (ie via the toggle switch ). Any change the car deems necessary will still occur.
Cheers
Gordon
Master
My tips are:
If you are finding it difficult to see or get access to remove the OEM rods, take the wheel off or for a front wheel turn the steering to the lock.
Once you have fitted the new rods have as many practice sessions changing the settings as you need so that you are confident and safe. A lot of frustration can be prevented by being familiar with the process.
Don't forget that if you select a terrain setting that changes the suspension that you need to manually select "normal" height again.
Turn off DSC in sand etc. (Totally off topic, but worth remembering as I think of this out of habit when changing terrain modes.) :-)
Keep the OEM rods in the car. That way if you ever need LR Assist you can swap back and avoid explaining that the rods actually had nothing to do with whatever the actual problem might be. Call it avoiding unnecessary confrontation.
Have fun.
Master
SupporterAs per other posts, I found them a little fiddly to fit (actually, to remove the old ones). I just did it from underneath and through the wheel arches.
When changing from normal - extended (and back), I pull the EAS fuse in the engine bay. It's a yellow one, towards the front of the fuse box (front of the car). It's closest to the passenger side of the fusebox, rather than centre of the vehicle. That's just from memory - you can find it described in your manual. I've actually marked mine with a permanent marker so I know which one to pull...
I don't leave doors open/closed, engine running/not running. Just pull the fuse, regardless of what other conditions you have.
And once you've done it a few times, it's quite easy (with a little lube). It's mostly by feel, particularly in the back.
But as others have said, it's really quite easy, and SUPER-useful!!!
The first time I used mine was 1 week on Fraser Island (that was my first serious outing in the D4 too) - you will be surprised how good it is on sand.
Just remember to use the correct tyre pressures!!!
Have fun!
D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.
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