Quote:
Originally Posted by winaje
Don't be worried mate, just a thought bubble from me. Plug and play would make sense if same Euro spec for both engines. So plan is to keep the original loom complete?
Scott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winaje
Don't be worried mate, just a thought bubble from me. Plug and play would make sense if same Euro spec for both engines. So plan is to keep the original loom complete?
Scott
Yep, that's the plan. Unplug everything, pull motor/transmission/transfer as unit, photograph everything and write it up, swap motor over and whatever else needs doing, reinstall...Quote:
Originally Posted by LRD414
Well, that's the plan...
:BigThumb::BigThumb::BigThumb: Top Effort! :BigThumb::BigThumb::BigThumb:
If its only a engine change, leave the transmission in situ, its a doddle to unbolt the engine from the transmission and bolt in the new engine, certainly far easier than separating the two if removed as a complete unit.Quote:
Originally Posted by winaje
Regards
Daz
P.S On reading the tittle I see your doing the engine swap with body left on, so hrmm my info above may be pointless, while the bolts on the bottom of the bell housing are easy, the top ones you might not have the room. With what u have saved with getting an engine, you could afford to buy a vehicle hoist :)
P.S and dont be tempted to bolt the basic engine in then try putting all the ancillary parts on, its far easier to have the engine as a complete unit with all bits attached before fitting the engine, as seen in this pic: https://www.facebook.com/aztech4x4/p...type=3&theater
I'd suggest for compatibility that you use all the ancillary parts from the D3 original engine, unless you know as fact a particular part is the same, this would include but not limited to; (at the very least compare part numbers of components).Quote:
Originally Posted by winaje
*Hoses & piping, intake, inlet.
*Fuel system.
*Alternator & Starter motor.
*Engine electrical harness/es, sensors.
*EGR & manifolds.
*Flex plate.
Regards
Daz
Thanks for the info. While it'd be great to have a hoist and do it body off, at the moment the shed is only 1/3 built and the hoist is not yet installed. Also we are working on documenting the body on version so that those who don't have hoist access can use the info to DIY...Quote:
Originally Posted by DazzaTD5
We'll be doing that, thanks. Hopefully the majority if not all the new parts can be used, either as a whole assembly, or sections, such as starter motor guts and gears, even if the casing is different.Quote:
Originally Posted by DazzaTD5
Edit: feel like I'm trying to teach grandma how to suck eggs, didn't realise you were a mechanic until I saw the picture in your post...
Not at all, while i'd never try what you are doing (nor would anyone doing it for a living I assume) as it just takes far too long and would blow out the cost of a job, I will no doubt find it interesting.Quote:
Originally Posted by winaje
Regards
Daz
No worries Daz. Yeah I fully understand that this is not the most economical method if you're paying someone. However, as my time is "free" on weekends and after hours, and we don't (yet) have hoist access, I thought it'd be a good opportunity to write up the job for those in a similar situation. I also make about 1/4 to 1/5 per hour of what a mainstream dealership charges, so can't afford to pay their rates, or even indie rates unfortunately.Quote:
Originally Posted by DazzaTD5
Why don't they work for the my05 - my06? Because they are euro3?
If so, is the base engine the same? Or not sure?
As far as I know, and don't quote me on this or take it as gospel, the core hardware of the engine is the same. But anything that has an electrical connection MAY be different, injectors for instance. You would need to do extensive research before committing to a purchase of a Euro 4 engine to replace a Euro 3 engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmy