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I'm going through the (very expensive) exercise of replacing an EU3 motor at the moment and I asked the same question. Will is on the money. At the interfaces, the EU4 is very different to the EU3, both electrically and mechanically (at least for the exhaust/turbo manifolds and possibly air intake). I believe the engine management computer is also different.Quote:
Originally Posted by winaje
Step 1: Lift the body! Argggghhhhhh
OK, a little clarification. We have found so far that access is an absolute nightmare. The initial plan was to remove the motor only, but there is no access to a couple of bolts at the very top of the bell housing. So at this stage it looks like we will be pulling the whole motor/transmission/transfer case forward about 20cm, and separating the motor from the transmission. Then rest the transmission and transfer case on the cross member, lift the motor, swap stuff over, document etc. So hopefully it'll be done reasonably soon.
Basically any change in spec from say euro 3 to euro 4 etc etc on any engine regardless if thats a Land Rover, Jeep whatever, you will find changes to the basic electrical, computer management and ancillary mechanical components. this also goes for engines in the same spec, such as euro 3 but from another type of vehicle such as the 2.7lt TDV6 used in Land Rover D3 / Ford Territory or the 2.8lt VM used in Jeep JK Wrangler / jeep KK Cherokee / Holden Colorado.
I see this as a bit of a given but understand people asking the question.
A few weeks ago a repairer phoned me asking for help with regards to a customers Jeep KJ Cherokee CRD 2004 that needed a new engine, they fitted in (as in all bolted up to the tranny and engine mounts) an engine from a 2006 model. While both 2.8lt turbo diesel VMs, the later engine uses a different turbo, egr, exhaust, intercooler, injectors, alternator, engine computer, trans computer, electrical harness, in fact apart from the basic block, nothing is the same. Why I was scratching my head was they even look very different! .... my offered up solution was to remove the engine and start again...
Regards
Daz
I don't know if it's worth considering but on a L322 the practice is to remove the front for a motor swap, eg bumper, lights, radiator, IC etc.
I am looking forward to this. Good luck.
Will.
It could be worth seeing if anybody wants to lend a hand at any time.BBQ/Beers as a bribe;););););););););).
It would be a great experience,if you were over here I would get involved.
Andrew
Is there a possibility of raising the front of the body to gain the access you need? I was speaking to a Nissan dealer the other day who said they do clutches on Patrols by raising the front of the body only, letting it hinge (or rotate) on the rear body mounts. They do not even have to break brake lines or the steering to get the 10cm clearance they need to get to the bellhousing bolts. They made special spacers they would place between the body and chassis when lifted so they could work underneath it.Quote:
Originally Posted by winaje
Cheers,
You remind me.
A mate did a motor/auto gearbox/transfercase transplant in a TD5 D2 in one hit.The reason,his motor and gearbox very tired after 400000km,bought a 90000km wreck and he only had a weekend to do it alone.
He removed the rear wheels,blocked the axles to keep the discs off the ground.Then lifted the front chassis the height of a 44 gal drum and blocked it there.He then removed all the body mounts except the rears,loosened them as much as he dared.Next he lifted the body at the front as much as he dared putting wood blocks into hold it there.He was able to lift the whole lot straight out with a forklift and drop the new lot in on the same day.
Thinking outside the square;););););););););)
Andrew
Yes same way, I had assumed (maybe wrongly) that the OP would have done the complete front removal, grill, rad, intercooler, rad assembly, lights, bumper, bottom hose assembly etc etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
Regards
Daz
EVERYTHING is stripped back to the front of the motor...Quote:
Originally Posted by DazzaTD5