A Comprehensive Guide

Can anyone at all confirm or deny this please? I haven't got the old engine out yet so can't directly compare...

In reading about the Lion motor here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AJD-V6/PSA_DT17 I see

"...the Land Rover variant of the Lion V6 includes a deeper, high capacity sump with improved baffles to maintain oil pressure at off-roading extreme angles and multi-layered seals to keep dust, mud and water at bay and different transmission bell housing bolt pattern"

I cant confirm or deny, but couldn't you check it against the motor you just pulled out?

Cheers

Dan

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Originally Posted by Disco-tastic

I cant confirm or deny, but couldn't you check it against the motor you just pulled out?

Cheers

Dan

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Hi Dan, would love to, but as I said in the first line of the post "I haven't got the old engine out yet so can't directly compare..."...

There has been a thread where this has been done before with good results so it would have been evident then.
Regards Philip A
Here is the google title
FYI - Ford Territory Tdci does go into a Disco 3/4 - Australian Land ...

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Originally Posted by winaje

Hi Dan, would love to, but as I said in the first line of the post "I haven't got the old engine out yet so can't directly compare..."...

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Sorry about that. I had just read a thread on a motor replacement which had photos of the motor out, and i confused it with this thread. :o

To make up for my error here's a link to a post with a summary of whats different. i dont know if its exhaustive.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2229277

D3 Diesel Front Timing Cover Explosion

It doesnt mention the motor to transmission bolt pattern. I have read through a few of these with no mention of different transmission bolt layouts.

Cheers

Dan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by winaje

Can anyone at all confirm or deny this please? I haven't got the old engine out yet so can't directly compare...

In reading about the Lion motor here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AJD-V6/PSA_DT17 I see

"...the Land Rover variant of the Lion V6 includes a deeper, high capacity sump with improved baffles to maintain oil pressure at off-roading extreme angles and multi-layered seals to keep dust, mud and water at bay and different transmission bell housing bolt pattern"

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Hi winaje,
while helpful or not...
As I mentioned before there will be differences in a lot of ancillary parts, I really do want you to succeed in your mission, so I say...

Assume EVERY ancillary part is not going to be the same, compare parts, part numbers, and if need research, this will save you from what I've seen so many do over the years, which is bolt something on and find out later that its not the same, the obvious different one in the high pressure fuel pump and injectors between D3 and Territory. Dont do what others have done and blindly bolt stuff on..

Regards
Daz

I was talking to Gordon, one of the two owners of Hunter & Cutthill in Geelong a
while ago about the craziness of having to remove the body of a D3.
He passed the comment that they have devised a way of engine changes WITHOUT body removal.
As I only own a TD5 the conversation went no further. It does show that an independent repair shop is on to it though.
Regards Nick.

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Originally Posted by worane

I was talking to Gordon, one of the two owners of Hunter & Cutthill in Geelong a
while ago about the craziness of having to remove the body of a D3.
He passed the comment that they have devised a way of engine changes WITHOUT body removal.
As I only own a TD5 the conversation went no further. It does show that an independent repair shop is on to it though.
Regards Nick.

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While I really do appreciate owners etc etc wanting to be able to change an engine without removing the body, what I cant understand is any repairer that does it for a living not wanting to remove the body to change an engine or any major repair work for that matter.

Its by design, its simple, its a very well thought out idea and I well prefer working on D3, D4, RRS doing body removal for any work than removing engines etc out of plenty of other vehicles.

Instead of "fighting" the body removal, a long time ago I went with trying to perfect it so the end finished result was equal to how it was, such as with a new vehicle or fitted back better than it was, as with an early 2005 model etc.

things I do....
*Getting a good quality full kit of body trim tools.
*Older models I dont try and remove the plastic retainers, I cut the tops off with a sharp chisel, its quicker and on refit it gets new retainers.
*Having in stock all the plastic retaining clips for trim.
*Having one of them plastic boxes with all the little partitions and each corner and section represents the same corner or section on the vehicle, so clips, screws etc are grouped together.
*Unlock all doors and pop tailgate before disconnecting battery.
*Put in neutral before disconnecting battery.
*I dont remove the road wheels.
*If its not an engine change, I dont remove the front rad support panel.
*Refit plastics and body mounts with some silicone spray.

It's under 4 hrs now, and I recon a younger mechanic might get it down even less, although young mechanics tend to be full of themselves so maybe not :p :p

The newer model Land Rovers such as the D3, D4, RRS and Defender TDCi are
one of the reasons why I've stayed with working on the brand.... the newer models are easier to work on!

Regards
Daz

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one of the reasons why I've stayed with working on the brand.... the newer models are easier to work on!

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Assuming you have a workshop with say 6 metres of headroom and a 2 or 4 post hoist.
Regards Philip A

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

While I really do appreciate owners etc etc wanting to be able to change an engine without removing the body, what I cant understand is any repairer that does it for a living not wanting to remove the body to change an engine or any major repair work for that matter.

Its by design, its simple, its a very well thought out idea and I well prefer working on D3, D4, RRS doing body removal for any work than removing engines etc out of plenty of other vehicles.

Instead of "fighting" the body removal, a long time ago I went with trying to perfect it so the end finished result was equal to how it was, such as with a new vehicle or fitted back better than it was, as with an early 2005 model etc.

things I do....
*Getting a good quality full kit of body trim tools.
*Older models I dont try and remove the plastic retainers, I cut the tops off with a sharp chisel, its quicker and on refit it gets new retainers.
*Having in stock all the plastic retaining clips for trim.
*Having one of them plastic boxes with all the little partitions and each corner and section represents the same corner or section on the vehicle, so clips, screws etc are grouped together.
*Unlock all doors and pop tailgate before disconnecting battery.
*Put in neutral before disconnecting battery.
*I dont remove the road wheels.
*If its not an engine change, I dont remove the front rad support panel.
*Refit plastics and body mounts with some silicone spray.

It's under 4 hrs now, and I recon a younger mechanic might get it down even less, although young mechanics tend to be full of themselves so maybe not :p :p

The newer model Land Rovers such as the D3, D4, RRS and Defender TDCi are
one of the reasons why I've stayed with working on the brand.... the newer models are easier to work on!

Regards
Daz

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Daz, Got to say we are a lucky bunch having people like you on this forum (and JC et al) with the wealth of information you have and the willingness to share it. The folk in WA are even luckier to be in the same state where they can use your services with the confidence that they are going to be looked after.

Always find your posts generously informative.