He must do a pretty good job.
One would soon hear on the grapevine if he had disgruntled customers.Never heard a bad word about him.
As long as he washes his hands after touching those Jeeps all is good:p:p:p:p:p
Andrew
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He must do a pretty good job.
One would soon hear on the grapevine if he had disgruntled customers.Never heard a bad word about him.
As long as he washes his hands after touching those Jeeps all is good:p:p:p:p:p
Andrew
I appreciate your words, cheers for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by SBD4
This forum is a wealth of information from both trade and experienced people a like, plenty of info I've picked up from here over the years even before being a regular member. From a business point of view being involved with any related forum, club etc is only going to be a positive thing.
From a personal point of view, I have customers from AULRO, Land Rover Owners club of Western Australia and ausjeepoffroad.com and always find it (generally) more rewarding dealing with customers that actually have an interest in their vehicle.
When I was 15 I thought how cool it would be to work on Land Rovers for a living, and now..... well at least I have a good (although some what odd) sense of humor :p :p :p
Regards
Daz
thats a true statement, a lifetime to build up a reputation and about 10 minutes to loose it..Quote:
Originally Posted by LandyAndy
and yes always wash my hands before working on the other brand, be that Land Rover or Jeep.... cross contamination and all that.
Regards
Daz
So, it's probably time for an update, and I see why Daz and others have said that a workshop would never try what we did... Also, with this post I fully expect to lose lots of thanks, get abuse, hate mail, death threats etc. (lol just kidding). It'll also necessitate an update to the thread title, as I don't want to lead anyone astray...
Basically, as the cars I had to drive while fixing mine have either been sold or are now needed by their owners, the timeline has had to be accelerated. I'm sure that the engine swap CAN be done without removing the body, but in the time we have put into it so far, we haven't gotten anywhere near as much progress as we both thought. So, after a lot of consideration, this happened:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/03/738.jpg
Yes, I know the shed isn't complete lol...
My mate (that's him below) needed a hoist anyway, but the D3 made the need immediate. So he spent $2k and bought a 3tonne hydraulic/cable hoist, and we have decided to just pull the body and be done with it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/03/739.jpg
The plan is to still take all the pics possible of the actual part swap from the Territory engine and document it, so the thread is not a total loss...
So tell me, what are the lotto numbers for this week??? :pQuote:
Originally Posted by DazzaTD5
I believe I have been very supportive of your original plan, but do believe u are making a better choice now. Now you have turned it into another interesting fun job, my feeling of dread has now been lifted, thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by winaje
I read somewhere... the difference between intelligence and wisdom regarding a tomato....
Intelligence:
Knowing a D3 engine can be removed without lifting the body.
Wisdom:
But deciding to lift the body off anyway.
Regards
Daz
But of course the 6 metre shed and the hoist make it quite an expensive engine change.LOL
Maybe it would have been better letting Daz do it!
Regards Philip A
The 18x12m shed you mean lol, and Daz being in WA, would have been an expensive freight bill...Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipA
But I know what you mean.
Ok, some notes while it's freshish in my head. Had a crazy day with my mate who gets in the zone and you get no chance to stop etc. I'll try and get photos of most of the stuff below:
So, the things that need to be swapped from old to new motor are:
Sump
Oil pump pick up
Flexplate and starter motor
Alternator
Air con compressor
Power steering pump
ALL pulleys not included on the items above. This mean crank, water pump, stationery idler, tensioner and fan mount bearing
Serpentine belt tensioner
Fan mount bracket
Timing belt cover
Front water pipe that runs between EGR valves
Bracket at the front to hold the EGR water pipe
Turbo inlet and outlet hoses
Water pipe that runs to left hand side of motor behind turbo pipes
Sensor at the top of the motor near the front, that plugs into grey mesh wiring
Plug for sensor inside the V at the back of the right bank
Entire engine wiring loom
Top front coolant "burp pipe"
Engine mounts
Alternator support bracket
Power steering support bracket (swap or remove threaded rod)
Lower turbo support bracket
Dip stick tube (this does not align correctly with both retaining bolts, but one is sufficient in my opinion)
Turbo oil drain tube
Remove right rear lift ring from supporting bracket
Use the Ford hose clamp where possible unless replacing with worm style, the Ford ones are a better design
Christening a shed before its a shed.Im sure there is something about that in the rulez book.
ENJOY
Andrew