Thread: 2016 SDV6 SE Add ons

I got the tow pro elite and LED load box installed internally and a switch to turn the box on or off if I am towing a trailer with LED's. As I can tow different trailers with work, this was the best option for me. This was done by driven auto electronics, he came out to me. I got the tow pro installed next to the light switch, was also asked if I wanted it where the electric steering wheel controls would go as some people like it there, it's just a personal preference.
I haven't actually towed with it yet but from what I've heard the tow pro has been great.
http://www.drivenae.com.au/

Originally Posted by DI5CO

I got the tow pro elite and LED load box installed internally and a switch to turn the box on or off if I am towing a trailer with LED's. As I can tow different trailers with work, this was the best option for me. This was done by driven auto electronics, he came out to me. I got the tow pro installed next to the light switch, was also asked if I wanted it where the electric steering wheel controls would go as some people like it there, it's just a personal preference.
I haven't actually towed with it yet but from what I've heard the tow pro has been great.
Driven Auto Electrics > Home

Thanks mate, I am going to fit mine myself as I will be doing the Traxide at the same time. I like where they have fitted it on yours.

The LED load box I still haven't figured out. Do I need one on a 2016 D4?

As a number of others have said the single best accessory item there is for a D3/4 is a Llams kit. I drive both the 3 & 4 at minus 20 on twistys and the handling is much nicer and it's as simple as turning the knob one click while driving, if the roads turn to poo and -20 mm becomes to bumpy then I simple turn the knob back and it's at normal height and the ride becomes smoother.
The convenience and practicality of being able to select any of the additional heights at the turn of a knob is priceless when you need to make that selection in a hurry while on the move for what ever reason.

A Llams kit allows you while sitting in the drivers seat to put your Disco from normal height to sitting on the bump stops right up to Super extended height or any other of the available heights in between in less than one minute or as fast as your compressor will allow.

Sure having a iid tool is good as well but no where near as practical or convenient or quick. Sometimes spending a few extra dollars is worth the cost and this is one of those occasions in my opinion.

Originally Posted by Smocky

.... point me in the right direction for the most up-to-date fitting instructions for the D4....

Two main options for location of the Tow Pro main unit:

1. Behind the panel under the steering wheel
Many have done this, as an example strydes posted a bracket detail on page 45, post 442:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...brakes-45.html

2. In the rear compartment passenger side
Good photo & description by Nod on page 47, post 466:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...brakes-47.html

Both options work well but have slightly different wiring requirements running from front to back that you would install at the same time as Traxide.
So you mainly need to decide between these two options so you can run correct wires with the Traxide wires.

Cheers,
Scott

Originally Posted by Smocky

The LED load box I still haven't figured out. Do I need one on a 2016 D4?

Yes you need to do something. This summary by Basil135 is good (copied below). It's in the D3 LED Light sticky thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...lights-29.html
This assumes you're making it up yourself in the vehicle but obviously you can also simply buy pre-made units that plug in between trailer and vehicle.
I bought a unit and fitted it to the drawbar of my camper trailer. I'm not worried about small box trailers etc because I don't tow these very often.

If you regularly tow different trailers then fitting a resistor set into the vehicle seems like a good solution. Described well in here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...brakes-47.html

You only NEED 1 resistor for the car to recognise there is a trailer attached, and for the functions to work.
Adding a second resistor has the benefit of giving the indication on the dash, regardless of which way you are turning.
The resistor (s) should be in a metal box, to absorb and dissipate the heat, although your indicators would have to be on for a long time for this to be an appreciable problem.
The D4 does NOT need relays. The D3 DOES need relays to stop the "pulsing" or "flickering" of the LED's.

Cheers,
Scott

Thanks guys, appreciate it very much. Plain English is what I was looking for. I'm a practical person.

Scott, that's a good point about the box trailer. Again, just to be clear...... towing a trailer with LEDs is fine without a control box, but the car won't know there's a trailer so won't do it's fancy stuff. For a box trailer to the tip, this doesn't matter.

Towing a trailer with normal globes, is perfectly fine.

Towing a trailer WITH LEDs and WITH the control box, just makes the car know there is a trailer so it does its "trailer connected" clever stuff with suspension management, lights on the dash and auto turn off of rear sensors.

Want to be understand is all, because I will likely fit a box to the CT then in due course but won't rush and do it. Wiring the Traxide and Brake Controller are my priority before ANZAC weekend.

Unless you're mounting the load devices inside your car (in which case, you will need a switch to enable the circuit to be switched off when not towing a trailer) - you don't really need a box.

I have simply run three wires to the trailer plug -



- One connected to pin #1 for left indicator
- One connected to pin #4 for right indicator
- One connected to pin #3 for earth

and run these out along the cable to the drawbar, where I have mounted two Narva load resistors direct to the drawbar beneath the tow hitch. The first two wires are connected, one to each resistor, and the earth wire is connected common to both resistors to make up the circuit.



It is only recommended to mount the resistors to a metal surface to allow for dissipation of heat - not that this would be a significant issue with indicators in any case. The resistors are waterproof and can be mounted externally like this with no problems.

Alternately, I could have mounted the resistors at the rear of the trailer and picked up on the wiring at the tail lights, but I found it much easier to do it this way.

Also, as Basil 135 has said, I need only have used a single resistor on one of the indicator circuits - but it's just as easy to run three wires as it is to run two, and the resistors came as a pair in a blister pack from Supercheap Auto anyway - so now I've got the green trailer indicator on my dash flashing with both left and right indicators rather than only in one direction as would be the case had I installed only one resistor.

I've only got two trailers that I tow - so found it easier to do this to both trailers rather than mucking around with a box and switch inside the car somewhere. If I ever have to tow another trailer at any time, I'll either put up with the reversing beeper, or quickly wire up something similar on that trailer if I think it's necessary at the time.