Thread: Stall and gearbox error

Hi Rob, how old is your alternator and battery?
Diode pack may be on the way out, I'd definitely be getting both it and the battery checked out ASAP.
Variable voltages can wreak havoc though out the vehicle.

Jamie's favorite hill.

Hi Rich,

I had a new alternator installed last year - think it was about March, so only about 20,000km on it (if that). Then this year a new starter motor. Battery has about 60,000km on it, but have been charging it once a week with my Ctek MXS10. Was running a fridge off the aux battery - but as it was about 3c overnight, not much demand on it!

Cheers,
Rob

Rob, my guess would be loose earth connection. Or possibly a shorting wire. Drove back to Sydney ok perhaps because not being bounced around. Both Mungus and myself lost power to dash with shorting wires in completely different locations so finding it could be difficult if it's that.

Scott

Rob,

Check your battery connections, my D3 gave me exactly the same symptoms last year, and I found that the screw clamp on the negative terminal had worn to the point that it seemed to tighten ok, but as soon as it was jolted or under heavy load, it "relaxed" and the engine and all electrics would cut.

Thanks Scott and Dave - I had to repair the positive post terminal a few months ago... I forgot to even look at the negative! I'll take a look tonight when I get home.

I suspect heat soak had something to do with it as well, as I paused at the bottom of the hill and idled for a few minutes - while my daughter's boyfriend took some photos of the top of Lake Lyell.

BTW, it looks like you can now cross the "river" there again - near the bottom of Firetruck Hill.

Cheers,
Rob

Apologies for the length of this post!

I checked the battery terminals yesterday. Positive was still ok from when I repaired it a few months ago. Negative seemed ok, but when I took it off, there seemed to be a lot of dust under the terminal. (Care of being "tail-end Charlie" on a lot of trips). I cleaned up both terminals and battery posts and added some CRC battery terminal protector on the posts and repaired the clamp for the negative terminal (almost out of adjustment space). I then put it on charge overnight.

Today I hooked up my Nanocom and looked at faults - there were 30 faults from 22 ECUs! Here's the list:
U0100 - lost comms with ECM/PCM (intermittent)
U0102 - lost comms with TCM (intermttent)
U0128 - lost comms with parking brake control module (intermittent)
U0141 - lost comms with body control module (intermittent)
U0159 - lost comms with parking assist control (intermittent)
U3003 - battery voltage (intermittent)
P0562 - system voltage low (historic)
U0100 - lost comms with ECM/PCM (historic)
P081C - park input circuit (historic)
U0155 - lost comms with instrument cluster control module (historic)
U0126 - lost comms with steering angle sensor (historic)
U0102 - lost comms with TCM (historic)
P0607 - control module performance (intermittent)
U0100 - lost comms with PCM/ECM (intermittent)
U0415 - invalid data received from ABS control module (intermittent)
U0402 - invalid data received from transmission control module (intermittent)
P0607 - control module performance (intermittent)
U0100 - lost comms with PCM/ECM (intermittent)
U0415 - invalid data received from ABS control module (intermittent)
B100D - column lock authorisation (historic)
U0100 - lost comms with PCM/ECM (historic)
B10A2 - crash input (historic)
P0702 - transmission control system electrical (intermittent)
C1B14 - sensor supply 1 (historic)
B1081 - left temp damper motor (intermittent)
B1082 - right temp damper motor (intermittent)
B1085 - defrost damper motor (intermittent)
B1086 - air distribution damper motor (intermittent)
B1B7B - air blend actuator - rear left (intermittent)
B1B7D - aire distribution actuator - rear (intermittent)

After clearing the above faults, I started the D4 and then checked for faults again. "U0128 - lost comms with parking brake controller" came up. I'm wondering if there is a canbus fault near that? Anyhow, cleared that fault and will check again after a few days to see if any faults re-appear.

The connector above and behind the rear left wheel would be worth some investigation i reckon.

If its any help,I had to help a Westrac spannerman find a problem in the loom on my CAT grader recently.
All I had to do was monitor his laptop whilst he played with the wires.
Firstly he located the loom with the issue using the laptop and fault codes generated,he had it on datalog so the fault would change from historic/current as he moved wires,all I had to do was say if it was current.Pretty sure you SHOULD be able to do this with the nanocom.
Anyhow he gradually worked along the loom wiggling the individual wires in the loom until he found where the point in the loom was where the problem was generating the fault.It was where the loom was clamped to the engine.Sure enough when he opened the wire up that was tripping the fault it was broken internally at that point.
My fault was intermittent for a few days then constant,except for when he played with the wires.Spannerman says that it was the wire making contact then no contact then finally not being able to make contact that caused the fault codes.
Must remind them that they were to return and replace the damaged/repaired harness under warranty.
GOODLUCK
Andrew