Hi Sean - possibly. I also wonder if there is a dud relay somewhere which is triggered in these conditions? Or say, a fault in the solenoid on the transfer case (that selects low range).
Rob, is it possible that the issue is in the taped up connector?
Cheers,
Sean
“Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” - Albert Einstein
Hi Sean - possibly. I also wonder if there is a dud relay somewhere which is triggered in these conditions? Or say, a fault in the solenoid on the transfer case (that selects low range).
Rob,
If I remember correctly, that cable starts at the connector above the left hand headlamp, runs down through the inner guard, through the left hand front wheelarch, then down the chassis rail. That front wheelarch may be worth looking at, if you've had issues with wheels rubbing.
Thanks Dave - but I think I'll need to look for a wiring diagram. It seems to me that the high speed CAN bus cable would daisy chain from EPB to e-diff (or vice versa). If it was a problem further towards the front, surely there would be issues in high range and low range. EPB module could also be at fault, although not sure why - unless hill start assist is trying to kick in - when in low range?
I don't think I've got a D4 wiring diagram, but I have got a 2010 RRS one. I've have a hunt and see if it helps.
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
- Justin
Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
VK2HFJ
Thanks Justin, I've just spent a couple of hours hunting for that, as the RRS one I have wasn't much help.
Hi Folks,
I just wanted to close this thread and let everyone know what the cause was.
In short, the multiple Uxxx DTC were a symptom, but not the cause. The real cause turned out to be a short in the main power cable that goes from the bottom of the megafuse to the alternator and starter motor. The cable routes behind the alternator, past the chassis and engine mount... back to the starter motor. Just behind the alternator, the cable was shorting on a bolt attached to the chassis.
So on road and smooth-ish offroad tracks, the cable was bouncing on the chassis and giving canbus errors - because the computers were not getting steady voltage to operate and communicate with each other. On severe offroad tracks, the cable was banging on the chassis harder - which caused the stall. On the now two occasions on *really* hard tracks - the megafuse blows. When that happens - game over, red rover!
Here's a photo of the spont on the cable where it was shorting - just before it goes onto the back of the alternator:
Notice how the conduit shielding has moved back from the end of the lead? My mechanic made sure he added extra on the new cable ($336 btw) when he installed it (3.75 hours labour).
Here's a photo of the megafuse, which blew twice - leaving me stranded:
So happy that I can now rely on my D4 again while offroad! I can feel the permagrin coming back!
Cheers,
Rob
Thanks Jonesy63,
I ran a new seperate alternator cable on my D3 and I can certainly see how easy that could happen.
Glad you found the problem.
Cheers Ean
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