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Thread: keeping on top of servicing

  1. #31
    LRD414's Avatar
    LRD414 is offline Super Moderator Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by vbrab View Post
    Have a 2007 D3 2.7, synthetic 5/30 oil and Mahle filter every 10,000k.

    Has covered 355,000k so far and neither uses oil between services nor smokes and no engine rattles.

    I'm optimistic of it going to 400k, and figure clean oil has a lot to do with it.
    That's a good run and nice to hear.
    What have you done regarding transmission servicing in that time?

    Scott
    D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
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    Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by shanegtr View Post
    Hard to know if the oil you are getting is a true synthetic or not nowdays as a class III base stock oil can be marketed as synthetic - class III is a highly refined mineral oil that nearly matches full synthetic class IV oil. Alot of oil manufactures wont tell you which one they use.
    If the "synthetic" is not marked PAO or Ester base, then its simply not synthetic, its a play of words, a legal loophole in the way they crack the mineral oil molecule that allows the oil companies to label mineral oil as synthetic.

    Also there is no minimum quantity that an oil company or oil blender need to add to an oil to again call it synthetic.

    and also oil blenders will make a big song and dance when their product is an actual full synthetic engine oil, so if no snake oil sales pinch then you can be sure its not an actual full synthetic engine oil.

    Regards
    Daz
    Regards
    Daz


  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by DazzaTD5 View Post
    IMHO....

    Every 2 years regardless of kms:
    Flush brake fluid.
    Change coolant.

    Regards
    Daz

    Quote Originally Posted by BigJon View Post
    Coolant is good for about 10 years.
    I've been looking at what has and hasn't been done service-wise on my D4 and coolant is about the only thing I haven't addressed. Given the differing viewpoints here on intervals for changing the coolant just wondering about the experts thinking behind the required frequency for changing it..?

    Thanks,
    David
    Everything is easy when someone else is doing it
    MY14 SDV6 SE Corris Grey
    Compomotive 18s : D697s : Traxide DBS : LLAMS : ARB compressor : IC-455
    Rhino Platform : GOE compressor, Tx & front bash plates, deluxe sliders

  4. #34
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    Coolants have progressed a lot in recent times. I’m going to do my D4 shortly at 7-8 years versus 10, but not because I don’t trust it, I want to change a hose and plastic outlet for continued reliability so will change the coolant at the same time.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  5. #35
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    For Discovery 3/4 We normally include a coolant flush at the timing belt service at 168k - 182k (depended upon engine) I would strongly recommend the exclusive use of Genuine Land Rover Coolant. Brake fluid flush is recommended every 3 years.

  6. #36
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    As already mentioned...
    I like prolly a lot of other indy repairers do the coolant change when doing the timing belt.
    I use Penrite HD Long Life ECO1 coolant (premix).
    keep in mind there are only two manufacturers of the base coolant, Chevron or Caltex (all brands are supplied by one of these).

    Brake fluid as already mentioned, 2 - 3 years
    This is not a given though, brake fluid needs to be tested for moisture content at regular service intervals. the Australian Standard is a maximum of 4% moisture content.

    Regards
    Daz
    Regards
    Daz


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