Snapped off roof rail bolt. Time to check your factory rails?

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Originally Posted by p38arover

Is it the same mounting as shown in these pics?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-disco...rack-fail.html

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Those pics are from inside, and I presume the lining or panels need removing to see those points. I have not removed anything inside.

I never use loctite.

I use a thread lubricant like the Molytec nickel anti seize lubricant and torque all bolts.

The only area loctite is ever used is on stainless steel nuts and it is used sparingly otherwise I use nylocks and lubricant.

The nickel anti seize ensures easy maintenance and have never sheared a bolt/nut yet.

Good outcome, though.

Regards

Gerald
VK3GJM

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Originally Posted by VK3GJM

I never use loctite.

I use a thread lubricant like the Molytec nickel anti seize lubricant and torque all bolts.

The only area loctite is ever used is on stainless steel nuts and it is used sparingly otherwise I use nylocks and lubricant.

The nickel anti seize ensures easy maintenance and have never sheared a bolt/nut yet.

Good outcome, though.

Regards

Gerald
VK3GJM

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The Thread Doctor would agree with you. He is scathing about Loctite. There had been a lot of loctite blue put on my roof rails when installed. They were quite gummed up with it.

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Originally Posted by BSM

The Thread Doctor would agree with you. He is scathing about Loctite. There had been a lot of loctite blue put on my roof rails when installed. They were quite gummed up with it.

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Perhaps you could call The Thread Doctor and tell him about Sniegys fix incase he gets more Landys in the future:cool::cool::cool:
Andrew

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Originally Posted by BSM

Really? It looked welded to me. I certainly didn't try undoing it. If so it must extend below the roofline and have an outer thread below the roofline as well as having its inner thread where the roof rail bolt goes. It that right? I can't see how else it can be a nut.

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YES! Really.
The bit that looks welded is silastic.

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Originally Posted by sniegy

YES! Really.
The bit that looks welded is silastic.

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When I was up there doing some things, I did notice the silastic that had been spray painted over - I was wondering why the "weld" was so big and excessive, so poked it with my fingernail and found it was flexible!

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Originally Posted by Grentarc

When I was up there doing some things, I did notice the silastic that had been spray painted over - I was wondering why the "weld" was so big and excessive, so poked it with my fingernail and found it was flexible!

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There are some who would say that some of my welds are "flexible". :p:p

They would be telling porkies though .................. ;)

But I reckon I did see some "flexible" welds on a black trailer in Landy Andy's shed in Williams a while back .................. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/667.jpg

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Originally Posted by BSM

Those pics are from inside, and I presume the lining or panels need removing to see those points. I have not removed anything inside.

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Yes, I realise that. I was wondering if they are the same as the inside of your car.

Sniegy, would you know how the 8mm inserts are fitted to the L322 roof? I was wondering of there is any reinforcement along the roof to spread the load.

There are some who would say that some of my welds are "flexible".


Only when you first squeeze them out of the cockies bum:p:p:p:p:p:p:p

LEAVE MY TRAILER ALONE,its not here to defender itself!!!!
Andrew

the same grade of stainless may bind against itself ie 304 + 304 if you change to 304 bolts and 316 nuts you will have no problem .The use of a nickel antisieze changes the nickel content and you are less likley for the bolts to bind.
The antiseize also allows a bolt to reach its correct toque buy reducing friction when doing them up.