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Thread: Bloody front oil seal

  1. 6th July 2016, 08:29 PM #11
    Grentarc
    Grentarc is offline Master Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ean Austral View Post
    the new style the seal can be pushed fully home in the housing.
    When I removed the seal on my 3.0 (it was seeping when we did the timing belt) it was all the way home before I pulled it out
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
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  2. 6th July 2016, 08:31 PM #12
    Ean Austral Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Grentarc View Post
    My genuine one cost $18 including postage from the closest dealer - why would you go aftermarket!

    Just remember you need to replace the crank pulley bolt!

    Yep I ordered 1 today,
    Bolt $23
    Seal $11
    Overnight express airbag to Darwin from Melb $46.50

    Cheers Ean
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  3. 6th July 2016, 08:34 PM #13
    Grentarc
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    We forgot the bolt, ordered one from the local Ford dealer $60 odd dollars for the bolt, no postage.
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
    Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
    VK2HFJ
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  4. 6th July 2016, 08:57 PM #14
    sheerluck Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Ean Austral View Post
    Genuine seal with the landrover badge and number on the bag. The genuine seal is about $11 plus postage, proberly cheaper if you shop around.

    Cheers Ean
    That's ok, was just checking, as there was a number of people complaining about aftermarket seals popping.

    We could do with a forum special tool to pass around!
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  5. 6th July 2016, 08:59 PM #15
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    LandyAndy
    LandyAndy is offline RoverLord Gold Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by sheerluck View Post
    That's ok, was just checking, as there was a number of people complaining about aftermarket seals popping.

    We could do with a forum special tool to pass around!
    The BFG would be rather expensive to post,especialy on niteroad
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
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  6. 7th July 2016, 04:04 PM #16
    Ean Austral Guest
    Well after much thought and a few conversations with our hydraulics fitters and our engine man I have decided to try a normal rubber lip seal. They have been using them in all things mechanical for decades and still are so I purchased 1 today and am going to see what happens.


    Worse case is it leaks and I have to pull it apart and do it again.


    Cheers Ean
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  7. 7th July 2016, 05:42 PM #17
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    LandyAndy
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    Will be interesting to see how you go Ean.
    Hopefully it works for a few more than 1000ks.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
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  8. 7th July 2016, 05:46 PM #18
    Grentarc
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    It will be interesting as my front seal leaks, then stops for a while, then starts again... then stops.... at the moment I am not leaking oil, but who knows how long that will last
    - Justin
    Selling soon - MY10 D4 3.0 TDV6 SE with E-Diff & LLAMS, 265/65R18 Maxxis Razr A/T
    Moved into MY12 L322 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography
    VK2HFJ
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  9. 7th July 2016, 06:34 PM #19
    Ean Austral Guest
    A run from Darwin to Alice out to the Rock and back should bed the seal in atleast.

    I think its worth a try . Hopefully have it back together saturday arvo and give it a run.

    Cheers Ean
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  10. 7th July 2016, 07:23 PM #20
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    BigJon
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    I had good success fitting the genuine seals by prefitting it to a socket the right size so you can ease it onto the socket "backwards" (the way that you can't fold the lip over.
    Then hold the socket tight up against the crank and work the seal off the socket and onto the crank the right way around.
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