Thread: Bloody front oil seal

That's a pain in the wotsits Ean.

Did you have a guide to insert the seal, or did you do it by eye?

No by eye. Spent a long time making sure the lip wasn't folded or not sitting right.

Cheers Ean

Ean.
Check that any engine ventilation systems(egr etc) arent blocked causing blow by to make the seal leak.
I had constant issues with my D2 poping the front cam cover after fitting the Provent because it increased blow by pressure.
Andrew

Think it's more that I just ****ed it up Andrew. I would say I never pushed it in far enough but I will find out on Friday arvo when I strip it down.

Cheers Ean

My commiserations, but please give us a post-mortem report on the seal. I am looking at doing my oil pump/housing in a few weeks and I could learn from this.

thanks.

Was it a genuine or aftermarket seal you used Ean?

Originally Posted by sheerluck

Was it a genuine or aftermarket seal you used Ean?

My genuine one cost $18 including postage from the closest dealer - why would you go aftermarket!

Just remember you need to replace the crank pulley bolt!

When I did it I was tempted to go to CBC and get a standard rubber lip seal that you put on wet. The LR seal is some sort of PVC looking seal that has to be fitted dry and is very easy to fold the lip that sits on the crank. You have to move it back roughly 30mm to the housing and they seem to be a 1 shot seal so I made sure I had a couple of spares. I have a feeling that I never fitted all the way home in the housing as the manual says leave 1-2mm protruding but I am told by a very good source this is for the older style housing and the new style the seal can be pushed fully home in the housing.

I also hear that the old rubber style lip seal that has been used for decades in all types of oil sealing applications is now being successfully used on these engines.

I should know more on Friday arvo.

Cheers Ean