That's correct. If your D3 is a MY06 or older (Up to VIN 6A999999) then it is an EU3 engine and needs the 85 tooth belt.
MY07 (VIN 7A000001 onwards) and newer are EU4 and need the 82 tooth belt.
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						SupporterI understand that the number of teeth on the high pressure fuel pump on Disco 3 diesel 2.7 can be ascertained by the VIN number. Can someone help with this please.
That's correct. If your D3 is a MY06 or older (Up to VIN 6A999999) then it is an EU3 engine and needs the 85 tooth belt.
MY07 (VIN 7A000001 onwards) and newer are EU4 and need the 82 tooth belt.
Don't forget the early ones that may have had the pump recall done. Had one of those earlier this year so now keep both fp belts in stock.
Jc
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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						SupporterThanks heaps guys, I really appreciate the information & advice. Mine is an 7A439 VIN number so it would be the 82 teeth jobby. I'm guessing they did this to increase the pump speed & therefore the fuel pressure slightly.
What do you reckon the chances of this VIN model having the later model oil pump ? I guess the only way to be sure is to remove the timing belt tensioner so I can get a look at the pump casting, I'd really like to not have to undo that crank bolt because I've already found it is a very tight thing & I'm nowhere near as strong as I remember I was.
Unfortunately you have zero chance of it having the later model oil pump, unless you or someone else has already paid for a replacement.
It is possible to loosen the timing cover enough to get a borescope type camera in. Have the belts not been changed yet?
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						SupporterNo the belts have not been changed. I bought it on the understanding that the belts had been changed but when looking through a swag of receipts there was none for timing belts. Serpentine belt, Yes. That manure thing happens. The auto has had the modified pan & service though . I can't take the chance with the lack of evidence & am in the process of replacing them. I'm a long way into it & it's not really as bad as talked about (so far) even though I am doing it on the floor. All the bits & pieces certainly add up though. I may well have a couple of useful tools for cheap hire once I'm done to help others out if this would be useful.
If you need a hand I am just up in Coffs See PM for contact details.
2012 Fuji White 3.0 D4, Rear view camera, Hi-line sound, E-diff, Xenon lights, ARB winch bar, Lightforce 240 50w HID. Brads sliders.
Can't argue with that sentiment at all.
The timing belt itself is a doddle to change. Getting the starter motor out to get the locking tool in.......what a pain in the rear.
And the rear pump belt is tricky only because you're doing it blind. If you had full sight of it, it would take maybe 5 mins.
Hope the rest of it goes well.
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						SupporterThanks for that Plane Fixer, I'm going o/k so far & hoping to overcome loosening the crankshaft bolt this morning. In hindsight I should have got all the ancillaries out of the way, put my long breaker bar on he bolt & hit the starter once like I've done multiple times in the past to different engines. Too long off the tools & behind the phone & desk. I think I'll write a brief when I finish of the process, if that's permitted on the forum, as to the steps & suggestions I have in doing this job as no-one mentions the crank bolt if needing to replace the oil pump. I didn't think removing the starter was as difficult as described, you just need to go steady & look carefully & avoid getting the you know whats & wishing you had a designer here to jam under the car. Would be much easier on a hoist. I couldn't see the PM from you & not sure yet how to do it from my end, got other more joyful things to do today !! than work it out just now. But thanks, will catch up.
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						SupporterThanks for the tips & encouragement Sheerluck, encouragement is always good.
I suddenly worked out the PM business, an achievement for the day already
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