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Thread: Bead Breaker

  1. #11
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    Before buying I would see if there is one you can borrow, I see it mentioned all the time about carrying a spare carcass but until you try it in the front yard you don't really know what your up to.......no point finding out I then middle of now where when the thread leaver bend before getting the tyres over the lip.

    In my previous employment we had to fit new tyre using tyre levers....it's enough effort on a defender rim to convince me me two fit any spare carcass with a rim.....**** changing a carcass on the side of the road.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    I just had a call from a local supplier of the bead breaker suggesting I'd need to spend around $650 for all the bits to suit LR & Compomotive wheels. I had already ordered my 6th Compomotive wheel and given the cost is about the same I think the bead breaker is not for me. He suggested that it takes quite a few goes on different positions on the wheel before you can break the bead.

    He also said that you can't insert a tube into the tyre because of the valve position. I can't confirm that but it would be another reason not to buy.

    Thanks to all those who replied.
    Rod

    D4 MY16 5 seat TDV6 - LLAMS, Custom Drawers, OL Bar, Toyo Open Country, GOE Rims, Lithium DBS, eDiff, OA Long Range Tank, GAP Tool, Tracklander rack, Mitch Hitch, TPMS & Safari Snorkel

  3. #13
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    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocket rod View Post
    I just had a call from a local supplier of the bead breaker suggesting I'd need to spend around $650 for all the bits to suit LR & Compomotive wheels. I had already ordered my 6th Compomotive wheel and given the cost is about the same I think the bead breaker is not for me. He suggested that it takes quite a few goes on different positions on the wheel before you can break the bead.

    He also said that you can't insert a tube into the tyre because of the valve position. I can't confirm that but it would be another reason not to buy.

    Thanks to all those who replied.
    Your only other option is the truck tyre pliers, they do work, but it's hard work, I watched Dave (Blknight.aus) do a D2 Alloy when we went to the Cape together, I reckon he took about 45mins to change and fix the tyre.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    Your only other option is the truck tyre pliers, they do work, but it's hard work, I watched Dave (Blknight.aus) do a D2 Alloy when we went to the Cape together, I reckon he took about 45mins to change and fix the tyre.
    Just out of interest, was the D2 rim also an 18"?? If so 45 mins without any damage to the bead or wheel is quite impressive.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russrobe View Post
    Just out of interest, was the D2 rim also an 18"?? If so 45 mins without any damage to the bead or wheel is quite impressive.
    No, 16" alloy.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redback View Post
    No, 16" alloy.
    Would love to see him do an 18. I can push the first bead of a 10r15" on by hand with enough soap. Wouldn't even bother attempting it with an 18" wheel though .

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russrobe View Post
    Would love to see him do an 18. I can push the first bead of a 10r15" on by hand with enough soap. Wouldn't even bother attempting it with an 18" wheel though .
    You could ask, Dave's very accommodating and a good bloke, give him a PM, I'm sure he could arrange something.
    Cheers Baz.

    2011 Discovery 4 SE 2.7L
    1990 Perentie FFR EX Aust Army
    1967 Series IIa 109 (Farm Truck)
    2007 BMW R1200GS
    1979 BMW R80/7
    1983 BMW R100TIC Ex ACT Police
    1994 Yamaha XT225 Serow

  8. #18
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    Aug 2006
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    Melbourn(ish)
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    Ive done a couple of the 18s and 20 (not a landy rim though)

    the trick is to use some of those ribber pallet strapping plastic blocks to help secure the rubber down and to protect the rims.

    the lower the sidewall profile the harder you work.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
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    Bead Breaker

    Hi
    Went down this path last year in prep for our trip to ayres rock. Ended up making an adapter that fits onto the standard LR jack which then mounts upside down into the mitchell bros hitch. tested it out at home and a few lessons learnt:
    1. have to disconnect van (obviously) to use but its only for fitting the carcass so have the spare before I need to use it.
    2. need good tyre levers (munns)
    3. 12v air compressor could not seat the new tyre so ended up buying a 240v air compressor with 40 ltr tank for $99 from repco, kept the tank and pressure switch and fitted the blue tongue compressor to it. It plugs into the anderson plug and works a treat.
    4. I have painted rims and they will get scratched, emergency use only.
    5. Its hard work so if I got to the point of needing to use it I would either wait for the end of the day after a beer or its a long lunch.
    Any way as it usually works when you prepare, 6500kms and not one flat.

    Bob

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
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    Do you think those extra parts weigh more than a 15 odd kg spare wheel? Would certainly cost most than the $150 max you would pay for a 2nd hand 18" LR original wheel.

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