Thread: Problem Charging Aux Batteries with Smart Charger

Perhaps the problems in in the charger ......it's not a Ctek ...but a Chinese brand ...C9005
......8 step smart charger

is your anderson plug at the rear fitted back to your cranking battery or to the optima ?

my anderson plug goes to the optima .......so have tried charging both using that ....and then clipped the the charger directly to my OEM crank .....but no luck

Anderson direct to Optima and ctek lead direct to crank. I’ve made a ctek to Anderson adapter lead.

Scott

Originally Posted by LRD414

Anderson direct to Optima and ctek lead direct to crank. I’ve made a ctek to Anderson adapter lead.

Scott

So by using the ctek plugged into the anderson you can get both batteries linked via SC80 to go to float .?
......that is ideally what I'm trying to do as I find accessing the batteries directly by removing the seats and battery box cover a bit of a pain.

i want a system that I simply plug my charger into the rear anderson charge up the optima and then flow across to the crank via the SC80 so both batteries go full charge and to float....should that be possible to do .....seems like you can do that with your ctek ...right ?

Originally Posted by landoman

So by using the ctek plugged into the anderson you can get both batteries linked via SC80 to go to float .?

Yep exactly.

Originally Posted by LRD414

Yep exactly.

Ok great ....so I now know what I'm trying to achieve is possible ....just got to figure out
why I can't do it ......it's either a battery problem or a charger problem .....it's definitely not the sc 80 as that is working to keep both batteries linked as it should

Hi Landoman, just take the negative lead off both negative ( - ) terminals and then connect your battery charger to one battery at a time, and see if it goes into float mode.

If you can bypass the recondition mode, do so. Long recharge periods have the same effect as recondition modes but long periods in recondition mode can harm batteries.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Landoman, just take the negative lead off both negative ( - ) terminals and then connect your battery charger to one battery at a time, and see if it goes into float mode.

If you can bypass the recondition mode, do so. Long recharge periods have the same effect as recondition modes but long periods in recondition mode can harm batteries.

Ok I can by pass the recon mode so will do that

I have a negative Lead on the crank ....and a negative lead that joins the two batteries
do I take off the negative lead from the crank .....AND the joining negative lead from both batteries negative terminals

sorry ........but this is a bit confusing .....

i have also read the instructions on my 8 phase charger ( always a good idea )
it has different instructions for " separated lead acid battery " and "vechicle mounted lead acid battery

for "separated " it say to put red clamp to positive pole and black clamp to negative pole

for " vehicle mounted " it says red clamp to positive pole and black clamp to chassis
......and ........."if the battery's pos pole is grounded then connect black clamp to negative pole and RED CLAMP TO VECHICLE CHASSIS ? ..........does this sound strange ?

4 hours after I removed the charger both batteries are now at 12.67.....

Hi Landoman, and it can be a bit strange if you are not use to doing this but just remove the negative ( - ) terminal battery clamps off both batteries.


It does not matter if the two clamps are still connected in some way, as they are now off both batteries, so both batteries are totally isolated from one another and from your vehicle.


Next, connect the battery charger clamps directly to the battery terminals, of the battery your are going to charge.


Job done.

BTW, with both batteries at 12.67v, they are filly charged but may still require conditioning, so still try your charger on each battery and see how long it takes to go into float.