2009 D3 SE TDV6 Low Power Pulling Away

**Mk1_Oz** · 2nd August 2017, 10:12 AM

Took the lad to school this morning and the D3 was playing up (engine was COLD). When I tried to pull away from a stop on a very slight incline, the car had almost zero throttle response and would not pull away (well it did but grandma walks faster!). It felt very much like it would if the car was trying to pull away in 3rd or 4th gear (no dash lights indicating limp home mode). SLOWLY the speed and revs increased until it reached around 2300rpm at which point it felt like the car came alive and off we went. It did this at every stop (to varying degrees) but once the car was moving it felt fine.

No check engine light.

I put the Nanocom on the car and looked at the "Read Faults" (10 read faults, 280 non-tested faults!!!!!! and no permanent faults - must learn what the differences in the categories are). The only fault that looked like it might be relevant was a;

CODE: P045C
Exhaust gas recirculation B control circuit - Low (PENDING)

The symptoms are feeling very much like a turbo issue - it feels like super bad lag then the turbo comes on power. However, normally the turbo/engine kicks in around 1700rpm whereas this fault is 600-700rpm higher.

Just after some info as to whether others have seen something like this before. As with the D2 I fixed a few days ago I don't want to start randomly pulling things appart but rather need to isolate a place to start (EGR system?).

EDIT: Just went out and drove teh car again and the PENDING fault has now become permanent and the MIL is on. EGR is def looking to be a fault. I think 'B' is the LHS from seated position? Also, I DON'T want to blank off the EGR's as I like things to be standard.

**DiscoJeffster** · 2nd August 2017, 11:01 AM

This sounds quite similar to when the brake light switch is faulty as well.

**Mk1_Oz** · 2nd August 2017, 11:28 AM

Can you expand? Are you suggesting the brake light could be part of MY issue or are you just saying the symptoms are similar?

**DiscoJeffster** · 2nd August 2017, 11:53 AM

It seems when the brake light switch is faulty the vehicle may not believe you have taken your foot off the brake and hesitates to give you power when you press the accelerator pedal. I've read this issue on the forum only so I'd suggest you do a search. It might not be anything to do with it.

**Mk1_Oz** · 2nd August 2017, 02:16 PM

After applying myself to this problem a little more I have the problem 99% sorted.

I checked the EGR valve electrical connectors. They were clean and both showed a 5v reference and a 2.44v 'signal' on another wire (have not been able to find out specific info on this value or function) but both sides were teh same so will take it as OK.

I then realsied that the Nanocom shows EGR info on teh CAN-BUS Instruments pages. My EGR Bank 0 & 1 Command was showing as 0 whereas the actual figures were 5 and 92.1%. I have read that 5% is the 0 demand value so as Adam Savage says, "There's ya praarblem". The EGR valve on bank 1 is stuck open which agrees with the presented issue of low power at low RPM.

Still looking but I hope Nanocom EGR bank 1 is the Near Side!

Then I had a plan so cunning you could put legs on it and call it a dog (Blackadder circa 1995).......I took a FBH and....ahem......'tapped' the faulty EGR valve. With each tap the EGR % fell! Eventually it became unstuck and started to read 5% as it should. A quick test drive, some key offs and restarts and all looks great (for how long is another thing.....). Viola. QED. Job jobbed.

A pair of EGR valves from the stealer is a whopping $1200!!!! From RimmerBros it is under $700 delivered and after-market parts would be around AUD$400 delivered although I like to use LR parts generally.

Looks like a **** of a job to fit them but I will order parts now that I know 1 is at fault.

**loanrangie** · 2nd August 2017, 02:18 PM

Originally Posted by Mk1_Oz

After applying myself to this problem a little more I have the problem 99% sorted.

I checked the EGR valve electrical connectors. They were clean and both showed a 5v reference and a 2.44v 'signal' on another wire (have not been able to find out specific info on this value or function) but both sides were teh same so will take it as OK.

I then realsied that the Nanocom shows EGR info on teh CAN-BUS Instruments pages. My EGR Bank 0 & 1 Command was showing as 0 whereas the actual figures were 5 and 92.1%. I have read that 5% is the 0 demand value so as Adam Savage says, "There's ya praarblem". The EGR valve on bank 1 is stuck open which agrees with the presented issue of low power at low RPM.

Still looking but I hope Nanocom EGR bank 1 is the Near Side!

Then I had a plan so cunning you could put legs on it and call it a dog (Blackadder circa 1995).......I took a FBH and....ahem......'tapped' the faulty EGR valve. With each tap the EGR % fell! Eventually it became unstuck and started to read 5% as it should. A quick test drive, some key offs and restarts and all looks great (for how long is another thing.....). Viola. QED. Job jobbed.

A pair of EGR valves from the stealer is a whopping $1200!!!! From RimmerBros it is under $700 delivered and after-market parts would be around AUD$400 delivered although I like to use LR parts generally.

Looks like a **** of a job to fit them but I will order parts now that I know 1 is at fault.

Blank the EGR's and no more problem, its on my to do list.

**Mk1_Oz** · 2nd August 2017, 02:29 PM

That is what everybody says and why I put above that I don't want to do that. I like the environment.......

**DiscoJeffster** · 2nd August 2017, 02:57 PM

Awesome news. Glad to hear you got a result.

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