The front pipes have screwed connections which are easy to undo, unlike the rear pipes with their push-in collets that get clogged with dirt preventing them from being pushed in far enough to release the pipe.
For two consecutive days now I have had the orange suspension fault come up and the note that only onroad height is available. Switching off and back on clears the fault and everything is Ok for the rest of the day. So I guess it is the start of the process for the compressor to really start to degrade - 132,000km so I guess I cannot complain.
In anticipation of the compressor having issues I bought a full rebuild kit for the hitachi from X8 in the UK with the intention of rebuilding it while it was still running but never got around to it - so a job for next week following the great vids that X8 have produced.
So the compressor will have to come out - there is my problem.
A few years back I jacked the car up on the compressor and and broke the mount. To replace the mount I did not have to completely pull the compressor out but did have to release the rear pipes (inlet and ???) or thought I did.
Supposedly you only have to push in the little collets and pull the pipe out - well no it didnt go like that. Even with the collet pushed in (with WD40 and all) the pipes would not come out. I ended up cutting the the air intake pipe and later joined it with a piece of rubber fuel hose and managed to work around the other pipe in place.
This time the entire air compressor has to come out so all 4? pipes - two at the back and one or two (?) at the front have to be undone from their collets.
As the collets would not release last time, is there a trick to getting these little suckers to let go of the pipes.
Thanks
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						The front pipes have screwed connections which are easy to undo, unlike the rear pipes with their push-in collets that get clogged with dirt preventing them from being pushed in far enough to release the pipe.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberGarry, let me know how it goes. My kit's been sitting on the shelf waiting for a need to use it. I've decided one day I'll pull it and just do it. Love to hear any tips.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Mostly on the UK videos they have to cut and rejoin the pipes with special joiners. No problems with that solution. Mine all came out with WD40 and persistence.
I did find that you need to get your body in a tough position to work on the unit. I had access to a pit. Doing at ground level on a jack would be tough.
Gday Garry,
I always thought the message centre showed a fault that said " compressor taking to long to inflate" or something along those lines if the compressor was on its way out , or have you actually identified it as a compressor fault thru the codes.
I battled suspension faults for ages that were very random but they did throw up a fault code , long story short , after replacing globes, brake light switches etc it was a battery issue.
I would have thought the compressor should last more than 132,000ks.
Cheers Ean
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Thanks for the responses - others experience with the collets seem to be the same as mine - what a stupid arrangement - same as the filter/dessicant arrangement - why have this in the air compressor unit itself rather than a service item screw on canister (similar to an oil filter) on the side of the unit (just pull the bottom cover off to replace) or at the air intake end in the rear guard.
Ean - just checked the codes and the suspension fault light cam on straight away - also the air compressor was cycling in 2 sec cycles - 2 secs on 2 secs off but once the tank was full it ran normally in trying to keep the car level (car is a on a slope).
Codes
C1A13 Pressure does not decrease when venting the gallery
C1131 Intermittent air supply component failure
U1A13 Front right sensor - voltage out of range
CIA20 Pressure increase too slow when filling
I am not sure which are historic or are current as I have not checked the codes in about 4 years. I had battery issues last year and I think the sensor fault is related to that. The others seem to indicate a compressor issue rather than anything else.
I cleared the codes and none came back and the compressor was running and the car levelling BUT the tank is not full from when I first ran the car. I would expect at least C1A20 will come back in a little while - I need to go out in a bit so will check.
Ean on a side issue - remember we recently discussed remote EGRs and fault codes - well when checking the suspension stuff I checked engine codes - nothing there at all - so no issues with blanking EU4 engines with serviceable EGRs attached to the wiring loom.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Just went for a drive down the auto elect for something else - no issues. Stopped for a cuppa and while parked dropped it down to acess height and then straight up to offroad height +50mm (have LLAMS) and went straight up except for the last few mm where the slow to fill message came up (note this is an advisory message not a fault message) - with LLAMs this is all normal and normally I stop at offroad height for a few minutes to get air into the tank then go the extra 50mm. I drove off at this high height and dropped it back down to access and then back up to the equivalent of super extended no issues. The dropped it down to access height again and back up to super extended ( this is really taxing the system and is not recommended) - above off road height the advisary message came up that raising height will resume when cooled - this is all normal and given three full cycles from access to 50mm above offroad shows that the basic system is OK.
When I got back home I put the Faultmate on to read the codes with nothing showing.
Open to any comments to assist with fault finding but in my mind the compressor is being strangled a bit from slightly blocked filters but is still working - if the tank is full it can keep air in there but if depleted it has trouble. I have two 4wd trips coming up in September and I dont want to go with a dodgy compressor. Next weeks job and if I am wrong it will give me time to go looking further.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Pretty much identical behaviour as I was having. An overhaul with the X8 kit and I have had no further issues since.
Oh, and all hoses (front and rear) just popped off and refitted without problems.
2024 RRS on the road
2011 D4 3.0 in the drive way
1999 D2 V8, in heaven
1984 RRC, in hell
For the service life the AMK compressor is giving I would not consider or bother rebuilding the Hitachi.
It's just that much better!!
2014 SDV6 HSE - LLAMS, Tuff Ant Tree Sliders, Tuff Ant 18" rims, Nitto Ridge Grappler tyres 265/65 R18, Custom Lipo4 battery, Custom Drawer storage system https://www.box.com/s/jem0ilac3cner2mexq64
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