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Thread: Suspension Faults

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~Rich~ View Post
    For the service life the AMK compressor is giving I would not consider or bother rebuilding the Hitachi.

    It's just that much better!!
    I have no experience with the AMK but from what I have read in overseas forums it doesn't seem to have been the saviour that we all thought. It seems that as it ages it is having similar problems to the hitachi though it does have better air output.

    My compressor has lasted 10 years and I have the rebuild kit, which seems to have a good track record so I will go with that - if that does not work I will switch to the AMK.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  2. #12
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    It's definitely not a leaky strut?
    Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
    Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
    Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
    Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
    First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'

  3. #13
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    My comp is still going ok 2007 RRS , i purchased a Dunlop compressor $479 from LRDirect as a spare when needed , cant be bothered with the soft ware change and the high price of the AMK .

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuart02 View Post
    It's definitely not a leaky strut?
    I think if it were a leaky strut that side would be dropping over a period of time and the fault code would be back.

    Unless you can have a leaking strut and it not drop down?

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    I think if it were a leaky strut that side would be dropping over a period of time and the fault code would be back.

    Unless you can have a leaking strut and it not drop down?

    Cheers

    Garry
    One of mine was throwing up suspension faults but obviously didn't have a big enough split to sag. I only knew it was that corner cos the other three had been replaced
    Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
    Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
    Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
    Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
    First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'

  6. #16
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    Just a bit of a follow up - since the two faults and then me raising and lowering the car over the full height range I have not had any issues at all. In that time I have covered about 1200km and checked the codes today and there are none - not even communications errors.

    While the compressor is still running Ok I might do the rebuild as a precautionary measure so hopefully get a few more years.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #17
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    This problem has not come back at all so not sure what was going on - so didn't bother rebuilding the compressor at this stage.

    However last week the rear suspension went down to the bump stops overnight on a couple of occasions - only at night and not in the day. As it went down evenly on both sides an air leak in the airbags is unlikely. So was figuring the rear valve block might have leaks. However I went 4wding on the weekend with lots of extended and super extended height work (LLAMS) and since I have been back the suspension has not dropped.

    So clearly not an airleak - I guess maybe an electrical issue when the car goes to sleep.

    So open to suggestions - as indicated, has not dropped since a lot of use of the air suspension system.

    This problem has happened once before about 18 months ago when the battery was dying but not had an issue since a new battery was installed.


    Thanks

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #18
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    My L322 goes down at the front overnight but it can be spotted part-way down late in the day. I have purchased a valve block rebuilt kit as I expect that air is escaping from the cross-link valve. The cross-link valves get very little air flowing through them normally but a good dose of cross-articulation can clean-out the seals. I suspect that pulverised desiccant from mine's Hitachi dryer has found its way into the front cross-link valve and that the cross-link valve seal to atmosphere also isn't sealing well. I hope to rebuild the valve block in a week or 2.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  9. #19
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    Graeme - thanks - where did you get your rebuild kit from? If mine starts playing up again I will pull the EAS fuse to see if the issue is electrical or a leak and if a leak I will try rebuilding my rear valve.

    Cheers

    garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #20
    Join Date
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    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

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