Thread: Diesel fuel filter replacement. To bleed or not to bleed. V6 3.0 MY11

I changed mine and I can assure you you will not start it again without a bleed. I did it by placing a container under the Schrader valve and opening the valve with a small implement. Repeat this a number of times with ignition on/off cycle until the air is gone.
The empty filter won’t prime if you don’t relieve the air pressure through the valve.

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I have one of these I could connect hose from barb end to a container from fuel rail schrader.

I watched an independant do mine & he filled the new filter with diesel before fitting. The car started straight away without bleeding. Easy on a liftI suppose.

That's all I ever did on the 110 Puma after hearing all the tales of vehicles not starting after filter changes and how it should be done. Shouldn't be a problem at all as long as the fuel is in a clean bottle and there's no dirt gets in while you're doing it.
That's the way I'll be doing it on the D4 between book servicing as well.
AlanH.

Certainly the 2.7 TDV6 does not need bleeding - does the 3.0 have a different system?

I can only tell you my experience on a 3.0L. I did not preprime it. I followed the instructions and before I bled it I tried using the ignition to prime it. I tried for 2 minutes on and off, tried starting it for ages. No good.
I had to bleed as per instructions.
On my previous FL2 I used the pre-fill filter method as it had a crap prime process. It’s really just so simple to open the valve and bleed a D4, that while you can prefill the filter, I just don’t bother.

I have changed the fuel filter half a dozen times on my SDV6 without the need to bleed the system. I turn the ignition on and off a couple of times prior to starting and then it has always started straight away.

Adding to the above, I just changed mine for the first time and didn’t need to bleed. Cycled the ignition a couple of times and it started straight away.

D4 3L