Rear Fridge Connector

**dero** · 7th February 2018, 09:19 PM

I used an engel plug in the back of my defender , has given no trouble for a long time on some very rough roads .

**AnD3rew** · 10th February 2018, 12:28 PM

Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE

Hands down the best way for secure Anderson plugs, I’ve done all mine on my camper that way.

Yep that’s how I do mine as well

**loanrangie** · 11th February 2018, 05:00 PM

If I was using Anderson plugs I would have them on a fly lead so you could tuck it away when not used.

**LRD414** · 11th February 2018, 07:10 PM

Originally Posted by loanrangie

If I was using Anderson plugs I would have them on a fly lead so you could tuck it away when not used.

Yep agreed, this is what I did. More flexible for attaching different things and hidden when not needed. See post #16

Scott

**Ralph1Malph** · 13th April 2018, 08:53 AM

OK, I just got around to doing this job.
Not overly difficult but.....as I have 7 seats, the seat belt retracter restricts access a bit and limits positioning a little.

I fitted two sockets, one is a merit, the other is one of those cigarette lighter types with the 'twist to lock' grooves and pretty blue powered up led's.

I ended up mounting the lower one 5 mm lower than I wanted and the upper could be another 5 mm further away from the lower.
'twas my own fault as I drilled the first on the wrong mark!
Still, pretty happy, they don't foul the re-movable panel and the merit is the lowest one so my fridge cable is well tucked away and will not jiggle loose!
I've also re-terminated my waeco cable to a merit, so I'll need to acquire a spare normal one.

They are both powered from the Traxide Aux cct, and share a 15A inline fuse.

Well chuffed.

Cheers Ralph
DSC_0413[1].jpg DSC_0408[1].jpg DSC_0410[1].jpg

**AK83** · 13th April 2018, 11:32 AM

The Narva 81024BL plugs are the way to go with cig/12v sockets.
Won't fall out, and need a bit of force to remove.
About $10 or so. 20A rating too, but for a fridge, not important.

I have a few, and was on the brothers case when he complained about his fridge plug always falling out on trips too.
He finally got one and loves it too.

I also have the Narva 82110BL(with the red tip)which is std 12v socket and Merit compatible, and it's OK, but not as good.

**Ozzy119** · 13th April 2018, 04:36 PM

After a few too many annoying drop outs turning the fridge off from the traxide 12v aux power point I decided to solder a connection to the loom and fit an anderson plug on that extra line. Fridge also now has anderson connection. No more issues and for me, well out of the way. Also added benefit that the 12v socket is freed up for other stuff / lights etc as needed.

Tombie · 14th April 2018, 02:14 PM

Always beats me Why people mount those power sockets inverted!
Any corrugated tracks will have the plugs working their way out.
Doesn’t matter how tight you think it is...

**Aussie Jeepster** · 22nd April 2018, 05:35 PM

Tidied up my power sockets today.
No shortage of places to plug things in to!!!
Rear plugs.jpg rear plugs 3.jpg Rear plugs 2.jpg

**Ralph1Malph** · 6th January 2022, 06:37 PM

Hello Everyone!
An old thread but an update that y'all might find interesting.

I purchased a 12V oven for last Fathers Day and up until recently, only used it in plugged into my camper.
Was on Fraser Island last week and decided to plug it into my car, out of the weather.
I know it draws 8.6 A and my waeco maybe 3-5. I fused the circuit at 15A when wiring the outlets (that's the earlier bit of this thread

), so I thought, all good!

To set the scene, the car smelt of a wonderful plum sauced pork roast when I checked and was about 3/4 cooked. Sweet!
I went to check it again about 20 min later and immediately knew something was up!
The cabin no longer smelt of pork, but of acrid melted plastic! Bugger!
Thing was, the oven and fridge were both still running as normal.

I pulled both plugs out and whipped the access cover off to find this:
Fuse Holder Melt.jpg Fuse holder Melt2.jpg
I've removed the char to inspect the fuse, but until I did, the cct was still intact, even though the fuse case had melted from the filament!
Over the years I've had fuses melt before blowing, but not to this extent or this length of time.

Here's the fascinating bit....the engineer in me snipped the melted holder out, as in the pics and temporarily re-terminated with spades and a new fuse.
Upon reconnection of the oven (leaving the fridge off till the roast cooks) I did a basic touch test of all the wiring to see if there was any heat build up.
I found that the wire between the original fuse holder crimp join and the now temp fuse, was warming quickly....Aha!
The crimp join was high resistance. This caused the overall power consumption of the circuit to increase and be dissipated as heat.
In this case, both the fridge and oven being predominately resistive loads and designed to dissipate excess heat, have largely fixed electrical characteristics.
The only real variable was the additional cct resistance, thus power dissipation (wattage), causing the weakest thermal component to suffer, whilst raising the current draw so gradually that the fuse didn't pop!

Anyhoo, I've decided to run a new, separately fused circuit for the oven using an Anderson plug and fatter gauge wire.
So where to mount the Anderson plug? I reckon I'll actually just leave it free and coil it up behind the panel when not in use.

Cheers.
Ralph

PS, the roast finished and was yummmmmmmmy!
PPS. I re-crimped the crimp and all was good.

Thread: Rear Fridge Connector

Thread Tools

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions