Early Life Failure
Early Life Failure
Does this apply equally or similarly to the TDV8 L320s? I understand the L320 environment is harsher than on L319s hence their highest failure rate?
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
Mine failed about 3 weeks ago - 139,000km. Drove the car in the evening and no indication of any issue. The next morning I started the car - no issues and about 300m later I noticed the battery light was on - about another km or so the cascading faults began even with battery voltage up around 12.8v but was still able to drive 40km to visit an indy and back home with various faults coming and going - wasn't fun.
Replaced the alternator the next day - all fixed.
So alternator can fail with no advance warning - even with a good battery. However with alternator pricing between $500 to $1200 it is not something I would consider routine changing - however if going extended remote I might consider changing and taking the old one as a spare as it could be changed on the roadside - or buy the new one and keep it in your spares.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I got a Denso replacement for £170 plus shipping so around AU$350.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
All well and good if you have the time to wait around but if you need your car well you need to buy local.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Then what about the water pump? the A/C compressor? the power steering pump? the idler pulley and the tensioner, then wheel bearings and it goes on.
I think on a day to day basis no need but I do agree if planning on a remote trip then for sure - consideration of the condition of all the above and the alternator should be done. If you have over 100,000km on your alternator then for sure carry a spare as it only takes about an hour to change with basic tools and a fan tool ($35 from a tool shop) and if it happens change it out then.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I wish mine had only taken an hour. 3 hours later and I was still cursing, trying to get the power cable off and on again.
And yes, I just replaced my water pump when doing the coolant service as well as the top outlet known to fail. I guess as opportunities present them I have preventively maintained it for known issues. Agree, where does it end? I guess I’ve looked at the common issues and dealt with them before they have become a trailer trip.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 SE remapped to RRS output, Alaska White, GME XRS-330c, IIDTool BT, Dual Battery, Apple CarPlay, OEM Retrofitted: Cornering lights, Door card lights, Power + Heated Seats, Logic 7 audio
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