Thread: Battery advice

I had this same problem. Passengers side free but drivers side jammed on. Cooked one wheel. No warnings or error codes and no real explanation. Cutting the cable would have been a solution but as i was under warranty I called LR Assist and they sent out a flatbed. 5 Days later I got the car back with a new actuator, wheel bearing and rear brakes. The guy did the work said everything was still attached but it was jammed up pretty well.

If I was out of warranty I would have got the bolt cutters out.

Originally Posted by iannicki

So, if you needed to do this out bush, and assuming you are carrying the right tool, does anyone have a picture (or a thousand words) to assist the mechanically challenged as to where to cut?

Look at where the brake cable enters the wheel hub. It was cut in that vicinity.

It's a fairly hefty cable. Using the side cutters on general purpose pliers might take some effort. Didn't cut it myself, was done by the dealer after a tilt tray ride.

Fortunately (or unfortunately) my EPB jammed in my driveway. Hooray for LR assist.

Originally Posted by Milton477

Sounds like a good result for you then.
I'm confused about this park brake thing. If it has an "opera moment" & you manually release it, is the vehicle driveable then? Where have you been/what have you done that it is so out of adjustment?

By Opera moment I mean it was screaming as it was doing its thing to apply or release the park brake. Over the course of a week it did it on and off, I noticed it mostly did it if there was an angle or slight incline. They haven't rang me back yet, so not sure what was actually wrong. I actually doubt they will tell me anyway or they might tell me some "tech" explaination that won't make sense to me even though I'm a heavy diesel fitter.

The manual release is a tiny cable below the water tray, under the cup holders. Once you pull it, the park brake will (depends how jammed) release and as far as I'm aware requires to be manually refitted and a computer to reset it. Not sure on this last bit, but there are people on here who I'm sure will advise otherwise. The car be drivable at this point and allows you to get it to a dealership or something.

The car has been through all sorts of water, sand, mud and what ever else, but one would think it would be designed for this.

My battery carked it (10.8v) over the last couple of days, 16 months from new.
I also have the Traxide fitted (disconnected at the moment). The voltage has been going south for the past couple of months.
LR Assist sent out NRMA batteries to test/replace the main battery. This was done under warranty, no questions asked.
I asked who makes the battery, he said Apollo. Allegedly the 4th largest in the world (never heard of them). At least I get an unconditional 24 month warranty on the battery, which is past the vehicle warranty.

Originally Posted by Hugh Jars

My battery carked it (10.8v) over the last couple of days

At 10.8v, the battery has most likely dropped a cell.

This is usually a manufacturing fault, and pretty rare these days.