And 255k without strict service intervals is a good run from one of these! My 8hp70 has just clocked over 90k. Im looking at doing it asap but unlike the 6hp the lifeguard8 oil is pretty expensive even for me to buy it
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
And 255k without strict service intervals is a good run from one of these! My 8hp70 has just clocked over 90k. Im looking at doing it asap but unlike the 6hp the lifeguard8 oil is pretty expensive even for me to buy it
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberI was thinking that given how many have been rebuilt around 200k that this one is doing ok. I’m convinced that towing 2 and 3 tonnes loads definitely contributes to their downfall, especially when services to LR standards.
Mine’s 250k and going well however it’s not towed much in its life. It was also not serviced until 200k km but I think it’s no towing previous life has saved me. Touch wood!
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
The software etc for the 6 spd applies tge TC a lot like y ou know and this promotes amazing economy and driveability however like any clutxh, wwt or dry, clamping pressure is king. As soon as material wears away and glazing begins the the end is starting. Its this reason tgat using the correct oil is so important.
Subaru are also the same , their clutch materials and oils are designed to work together and using non genuine stuff with them is a recipe for disaster
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
My auto trans **** the biscuit just shy of @220,000km. Mine was a complete failure, but through my reading as soon as those incorrect gear ratio faults start appearing its rebuild time. Basically as has been mentioned already its a result of worn clutch packs not locking up as they should
Shane
2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html
There is a post on the US landrover forum where a guy rebuilt his at home.
Transmission rebuild - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Shane
2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html
Okies,
Small update. I finally made time to crawl under and have a look.
My leak is definitely not engine oil and is most likely trans fluid based on the fact it smells and looks like trans fluid and not tcase oil.
It has fully coated the cross member and the tcase appears clean.
Most worryingly, it has reached the 'slow drips' stage.
Whilst I have no doubt, this is not all of my trans problems, I am sure that it will be low on fluid which won't help.
I've owned the car 21/2 yrs, but done close to 50k and was always aware of a slight weep - which has now obviously progressed.
Experience tells me that if it drips when not in motion, it is spinning it out when in motion!
In other news, I also noticed a front drive shaft leak when under neath. Dammit!
Cheers
Ralph
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