Not in that glorious logged form, ( great work by the way) however your steps to reach this point are sound and full of Spock-like logic, i can see a new HPFP in your future...
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Not in that glorious logged form, ( great work by the way) however your steps to reach this point are sound and full of Spock-like logic, i can see a new HPFP in your future...
I had a similar problem earlier this year. I had run my fuel tank down very low and it turns out there was a fair amount of water in the button and I sucked so much up that it got through the fuel filter and buggered my HP fuel pump. Luckily my mechanic had a low k's spare so it didn't cost me the proverbial arm and leg that I was expecting (pays to know your Indy mechanic -although as Landy owners I guess we all do :Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:).
Interesting. I just found 3 water in fuel events in the logs that occurred just prior to us purchasing the vehicle ~20 months ago.
My original diagnostic plan was :
- Reproduce the fault once more as-is with logging to check it is consistent.
- Replace filter.
- Attempt to reproduce fault. If fault again replace pressure sensor.
- Rinse, lather and repeat. On fault again being reproducible replace HPFP. I might even be stupid enough to attempt that myself, after all my life philosophy is : "you can't bugger something up so far that you can't pay someone who knows what they are doing to fix it if you get it wrong".
Given the above quote combined with this fault-set starting a month after a trip down south and few fuel purchases at dodgy regional stations, I might skip the first one and replace/drain the existing filter looking for signs of water first.
I was having a chat to some Toyota guys, and they all said their first act after purchase was to fit a primary filter/water-sep upstream of the factory filter.
That’s because they own Toyota’s lol.
Your HPFP is failing. You’ll accept that in due course but might have got to the end of your tether before you come to accept it [emoji6] Justinc is spot on sadly I feel
It is doable with help from here Brad. It is involved, sometimes fiddly, and you will lose some skin but it'll certainly save you lot's of $$$$.
Or you could give it to Dazza to do....😎
Possibly so, but I keep going back to Dazzas last line in post 15 of this thread. The other thing is a HPFP isn't actually a complex beast. It has close clearances though, and if it is failing/has failed there must be a reason. By being as comprehensive as possible with the diagnostics I hope to learn a bit more than I would from just replacing it, and it's not really costing me anything other than time.
As for the replacement itself, like anything, loads of reading, expensive bottles of alcoholic beverage in exchange for friendly advice from knowledgable people on a Friday arvo and plenty of patience. Oh, and not trying to cheap out on parts or tools.
I'm still trying to convince the wife to let me keep it at the moment, and part of that is having a defined plan. So rather than just chucking a new HPFP at it I'd like to be absolutely certain that is going to nail the fault. I'd be seriously ****ed off if I spent the best part of 2 grand in parts and it turned out to be a sensor.
Or a fuel filter
I live with this scenario quite often, diagnosis of a problem requiring the outlay of serious $$$ to repair is quite stressful especially when it isn't your own $$$... . The only thing to do is be as thorough as you can, and trust in your methods. The first one of these i came across certainly caused a few sleepless nights however it was a success as i had eliminated all other possible causes as much as i possibly could. There will always be a small amount of apprehension when diagnosing complex systems and intermittent faults, just do your best and MOSTLY it'll turn out positively.
Did you see this thread? 2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 - High Pressure Fuel Pump
Have a read of the last post.
7th February 2016, 08:47 AM
cyberboblouth
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Update:
I was made redundant on May 28th so paying for this was not an option.
After lots of fault finding (see my other thread) I also suspected the LPFP - air in diesel line and less than 5A draw. The fuse was also melting. It turns out I had a bad contact in the fuse, it wasn't priming upon turning the key but if I gently pulled back on the fuse all was good. It has had a tie wrap pulling the fuse back for some months now and the issue has not returned. Fixed? Maybe!
I also add 300ml of 2 stroke oil to every tank of diesel now.
He had the exact same symptoms as you i believe, Check the fuse!!
Apparently the OP has tested the low pressure side, and it didn't appear to be a factor in the logs posted before ,