08 D3 TDV6 P117D-00

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Originally Posted by Russrobe

Did you see this thread? 2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 - High Pressure Fuel Pump
Have a read of the last post.

He had the exact same symptoms as you i believe, Check the fuse!!

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Yes, I've read just about every post there is to read on every forum Google indexes. In my case the first thing I did was rig up a gauge and test the LPFP. Pressure and flow were both good. That was in June though. I will re-test it, but I need a better adapter for the Schrader valve as the adaptor I kludged up leaks.

If if I pull the LPFP fuse and take it around the block it sets a code related to rail pressure, but at the time I last tested it, that didn't result in an Engine System Fault error. I wasn't game to run it far with the fuse out as I didn't want to risk damaging the HPFP.

A slightly odd request.

If I wanted to temporarily get a cable from the engine bay into the cabin, what would be the most likely hole / bung / stopper / route that would not require tearing the dash apart or making any permanent holes?

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Originally Posted by BradC

A slightly odd request.

If I wanted to temporarily get a cable from the engine bay into the cabin, what would be the most likely hole / bung / stopper / route that would not require tearing the dash apart or making any permanent holes?

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Thru a grommet that is to the right of the brake booster behind the auxiliary battery tray.

Check this one out. Again, cruising along the flat but this time at ~60-70kph.
Foot goes down a little bit (Purple). Boost starts to build (green), volume valve opens (yellow), pressure command spikes up past 50% (orange), fuel pressure falls (red).

Attachment 145455

This log is unique in that this is the first time I've seen the valve say "More please" and the pressure actually drops. Usually it just stays level or climbs slowly until the ESF triggers.

So perhaps a valve sticks in the pump preventing an increase in pressure or volume, the injectors want to put more fuel in so the rail pressure tanks?
I've had a pretty good look at the pump diagrams and what little imagery I can find on the net and a sticky valve or orifice blockage would be the only thing that could explain failure to build pressure like this on an intermittent basis. The pump itself will either pump or it won't.

Stop, cycle the ignition and fault gone. I've never tried, but can you clear a fault with the IID without stopping the engine? I might try that next time.

A couple of things I've discovered thus far that make logging and analysis with the IID a bit easier on the fly. At first startup I stab the throttle to get the valve and pressure to spike, and then stretch the pressure valve and fuel pressure scales so they match in offset and magnification giving me a nice real-time track.

Once the relative scales are set they track accurately, so you can match the fuel pressure and pressure valve curves pretty nicely. As the fuel temperature increases you need more pressure valve for the same pressure, but the proportion doesn't change, just the offset. So you can slide one of them to bring them back into line as the fuel temperature increases.

As the fault gets closer to manifesting, the fuel pressure seems to get lazy against the valve command, so it can often lag quite significantly. This is easy to spot if you are in the position to be able to check the iPad while you're driving. I never am, but it's obvious after the fact. Interestingly Ive had the pressure valve slam open and lag building pressure a couple of times pre-fault, but eventually it got there. The ECU seems to need the situation to continue for more than about 2 seconds before it triggers the ESF.

I have a new filter on my desk, and I have a new rail pressure sensor on the way.

I'm also waiting on the gear to make up a low pressure transducer, and an amplified shunt so I can simultaneously log the LPFP pressure and current draw. I should be able to splice the logs together as CSV files and get GNUPlot to plot them together so I can integrate the LPFP logs into the stuff coming from the IID. They're fleabay purchases, so I suspect they're a month off, so I have other stuff to play with in the mean time.

None of this is to dodge the reality that I'm up for a new HPFP, but since the car is now mine and I don't mind if it plays up so much I thought I'd take the time to seriously and thoroughly investigate the fault and examine the data in detail prior to swapping parts. That way I can quantify what (if any) difference each part makes in the running of the vehicle.

As they say : "In god we trust, all others bring data".

So after a couple of months of trouble free motoring, I left the kids seats in my car after a *long* run in the country over the weekend and the wife decided she'd rather drive on Tuesday it than swap the seats. It faulted *twice*. She came home, swapped the seats and handed it back.

It faulted on me today *twice* because it knows I was starting to trust it again and we're towing the van for Christmas and I need it to behave, so like a petulant teenager it rebels.

I found a *neat* work around though today. Checking the logs, the engine fault occurs. This then cascades to a transfer case fault and 6 seconds later a suspension fault. So there is about 6 seconds from the loss of power and *bong* to dropping the suspension. Simply cycling the key in that time "get off the loud pedal, turn it off, count to two, turn it back on again and get on the juice" nixes the faults and leaves me not much slower than I was when the fault occurred. Tried it at 100 on the freeway and was still doing 90 when it lit back up. When dragging the van, provided it doesn't happen going up a hill the extra inertia should make the whole exercise mostly a non-event. Prior to that I had tried clearing the faults on the fly, but it turns out you need an ignition cycle to clear the suspension fault.

So that should get me through the Christmas trip. Next thing to do is order a new HPFP and ancillaries from the UK and prepare for a day in the driveway. Shame. They have gone up $300 AUD since I last priced them. Thanks AUD/UKP.

Maybe I'll wait until the next Brexit vote and the resulting drop in the pound. I can do my "on the fly" ignition cycle until then.

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Originally Posted by BradC

Prior to that I had tried clearing the faults on the fly, but it turns out you need an ignition cycle to clear the suspension fault.

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Were you clearing just the engine faults or faults on all systems, the TC and ABS modules specifically?

I would give a fuel additive a go first. Something like Liqui Moly, followed up with a regular additive like Redline (I have stacks of this stuff - pity your not closer). It may not work but may be worth a try, before jumping to a more expensive option.

Following on from Graeme, if it was a L322 it say put the battery on a smart multi stage charger, as may be a voltage issue/battery fault.

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Originally Posted by BradC

So after a couple of months of trouble free motoring, I left the kids seats in my car after a *long* run in the country over the weekend and the wife decided she'd rather drive on Tuesday it than swap the seats. It faulted *twice*. She came home, swapped the seats and handed it back.

It faulted on me today *twice* because it knows I was starting to trust it again and we're towing the van for Christmas and I need it to behave, so like a petulant teenager it rebels.

I found a *neat* work around though today. Checking the logs, the engine fault occurs. This then cascades to a transfer case fault and 6 seconds later a suspension fault. So there is about 6 seconds from the loss of power and *bong* to dropping the suspension. Simply cycling the key in that time "get off the loud pedal, turn it off, count to two, turn it back on again and get on the juice" nixes the faults and leaves me not much slower than I was when the fault occurred. Tried it at 100 on the freeway and was still doing 90 when it lit back up. When dragging the van, provided it doesn't happen going up a hill the extra inertia should make the whole exercise mostly a non-event. Prior to that I had tried clearing the faults on the fly, but it turns out you need an ignition cycle to clear the suspension fault.

So that should get me through the Christmas trip. Next thing to do is order a new HPFP and ancillaries from the UK and prepare for a day in the driveway. Shame. They have gone up $300 AUD since I last priced them. Thanks AUD/UKP.

Maybe I'll wait until the next Brexit vote and the resulting drop in the pound. I can do my "on the fly" ignition cycle until then.

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Give DiscoWA ( roger ) a PM - he went thru the HPFP replacement and found the supplier for these pumps in Perth and I think got a pretty good price compared to what else was around. He also replaced his himself so he may be able to give you some first hand tips on what`s involved.

I had a very similar issue to you myself on our way back from Tasmania but mine would drive anywhere up to 1000ks before it would fault and usually when I was sitting on 100km/h and had been for some time. My fault code was something like invalid data from external source or something to that effect.

Cheers Ean

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Originally Posted by Graeme

Were you clearing just the engine faults or faults on all systems, the TC and ABS modules specifically?

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Faults on all systems. One of the faults (and I don't recall which but it prevented the suspension from rising) would not clear until I'd cycled the ignition.
So I had full power, but was lowered. Thankfully it turns out a rolling ignition cycle does the job quicker and easier.

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Originally Posted by rar110

I would give a fuel additive a go first. Something like Liqui Moly, followed up with a regular additive like Redline (I have stacks of this stuff - pity your not closer). It may not work but may be worth a try, before jumping to a more expensive option.

Following on from Graeme, if it was a L322 it say put the battery on a smart multi stage charger, as may be a voltage issue/battery fault.

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Definitely not a battery issue. I have had my meter in the cabin watching to make sure none of it is charging related and with min logging enabled it never drops below ~13.4V usually sitting at 13.7V.

It's funny, I don't seem to get the issue if I use the expensive BP fuel and don't let it fall past 1/4 tank. My wife filled it up with cheap independent on-special juice and the fault is back. I figure the pump is probably getting toward being on its last legs and maybe a bit of extra stuff in the expensive fuel helps it over the hump. I'll grab some magic in a bottle and see if that helps get over the holidays until I get a chance to put a new pump in. Unfortunately I have a full tank of cheap-o juice and no opportunity to burn it off until I go and pick the van up.

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Originally Posted by Ean Austral

Give DiscoWA ( roger ) a PM - he went thru the HPFP replacement and found the supplier for these pumps in Perth and I think got a pretty good price compared to what else was around. He also replaced his himself so he may be able to give you some first hand tips on what`s involved.

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I will do that.

Unfortunately as is always the way, the last couple of months have been mental and I've not had time to work on the car. I've also had another car to drive and so it knew that and behaved itself. Now when I still have no time but need it to behave (because while I *can* tow the van with my 30 year old Volvo, I'd much rather use the rolling sofa I bought specifically to tow the van with) it's asserting its individuality.

So, did the oil and fuel filters today. No water or sparklies in the fuel filter. Fitted a Stahlbus valve to speed / neaten up the next oil change.

I had a sod of a time trying to drain the fuel filter. Getting a hose onto the nipple was a nightmare and then when I wound it open a couple of turns nothing came out. I also found a single wire connector floating around.

Yes, the Antichrist strikes again. It has no water sensor/drain. I was trying to put the drain hose on the little handle on the bottom of the dummy plug the filter comes with. Another expensive part to add to my next parts order. Also, whomever decided to place the filter in that location needs to be cast into the pit of despair. I can't imagine sitting on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere having to crawl under the car, remove 6 bolts from the pan, then 3 bots from the heat-shield just to drain the filter after a water-in-fuel warning.

I also found the transmission shield with only 3 bolts holding it on.

Every time I look at this damned car I find some other piece of shoddy workmanship, improperly re-fitted parts, stripped nuts, wire harnesses floating and touching rotating bits or stuff just plain missing.

Anyway, I fitted up the fuel pressure gauge and stuck it to the windscreen wiper to take it for a drive.

I get ~0.4 bar at idle, down to 0.2 revving its tits off unloaded and I did see it drop down near 0 once during a WOT 2nd gear pull. So the LPFP is probably weak but still doing its thing.

My current probe for the CRO arrived last week, so when I get a moment I'll have a look at the running waveform on the pump just to be sure. It doesn't *sound* all that healthy when doing its pre-start prime.