Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 24

Thread: D3 Brake/Clutch fluid flush

  1. #1
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
    No one of consequence
    Supporter
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Perth (near Malaga)
    Posts
    3,546
    Total Downloaded
    0

    D3 Brake/Clutch fluid flush

    So it's that time. When we bought the car, the first service we had the Indy do Diffs, Gearbox, Transfer Case, Engine oil & Coolant. When quizzed about the power steering and brake we were told they had test kits and never did a change unless the test kit indicated it was required. PS fluid is next years project.

    The Landrover service sheet seems to indicate a 3 yr replacement for the brake fluid and having rebuilt brakes on 2 cars because the previous owners *never* flushed and the calipers were full of grunge, I'd like to do it properly.

    I have a Motive power bleeder (which I love) and a lazy-mans Mity-vac equivalent (which I hate). The motive fits on the fluid reservoir, so I can pressure flush if I need to. I was wondering though as there seems to be some sly intimation that you can use the IID Tool and the ABS to flush the brakes, but I can find no concrete details on if and how.

    Does anyone have a neat trick for a fluid replacement or do I just pump up the motive and push it through? I'll have to pressure flush the clutch, but I can do that without putting fluid in the Motive and just use air on the reservoir. The brakes use quite a bit more fluid.

    On brakes, does anyone do the 6 yearly hose replacement specced in the service sheet?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,744
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I did a brake flush a couple of months ago. I thought that the IID would use the ABS unit to pump the fluid through the lines but it didnt do that for me - I think it seemed to be more the ABS pump activating to ensure fresh fluid is flushed through the unit. Not sure if anyone has had a different experiance to this?

    I flush my brake lines every 2 years on all my vehicles (expect the toyota's I've had in the past as they still spec DOT 3 fluid and that absorbs water at a faster rate than DOT 4)
    Shane
    2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html

  3. #3
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
    No one of consequence
    Supporter
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Perth (near Malaga)
    Posts
    3,546
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Yeah, I do 2 yrs as a matter of course. Out of interest, what fluid did you use?
    i just picked up some Penrite ESP as that appears to meet the spec.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    4,335
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I use the Motive bleeder. Push it through as normal. The IID couldn’t do brakes last time I did mine but will see what it does next time. I used factory fluid last time as it was easier to get and I wanted to use the exact spec as it’s a very specific consistency. There are only a couple of aftermarket equivalents.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,744
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Yeah, I do 2 yrs as a matter of course. Out of interest, what fluid did you use?
    i just picked up some Penrite ESP as that appears to meet the spec.
    I just use Penrite Super DOT 4 as its easily obtainable where I am. I think I might purchase one of those motive power bleeders for my next change. I also have a mity-vac and I find its not the best (at least not compared to what I was expecting from it years ago when I purchased it)
    Shane
    2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html

  6. #6
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
    No one of consequence
    Supporter
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Perth (near Malaga)
    Posts
    3,546
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by shanegtr View Post
    I just use Penrite Super DOT 4 as its easily obtainable where I am. I think I might purchase one of those motive power bleeders for my next change. I also have a mity-vac and I find its not the best (at least not compared to what I was expecting from it years ago when I purchased it)
    I've had the motive for about 6 years and it has been fabulous. It does tend to waste a bit of fluid and can be a bit messy if you're not careful. This time around I'm going to try the "dry" technique and just use it to pressurise the reservoir, refilling after each corner. The reservoir on the disco is a lot bigger than on some of my other cars, so it shouldn't be too onerous and will save both fluid and a cleanup at the end.

    I put a quick coupler on the motive adapter yesterday, so I'll just hook it up to a spare air regulator to save pumping up the bottle all the time. Of course given how things usually go on this car, I bet the reg fails and I blow the reservoir off the master cylinder.

    i bought a mityvac clone last year for a fluid change on my Volvo, but the motive moves the fluid much faster and doesn't get bubbles in the hose. With a vacuum on the bleed nipple I can't stop it pulling air past the threads, so I can't actually tell if the bubbles are "more bleeding required" or just an artefact of the process.

    i did check and the Penrite ESP meets the required standard for the D3.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    4,335
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I use my Motive dry. It’s a pain in the arse tbh as you’re constantly removing and topping up but wastes less.
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Toogoom, QLD
    Posts
    990
    Total Downloaded
    0
    hmmm interesting thread as I'm wanting to flush my brakes on the D3. I have a IID tool but have not explored what it might be able to do as yet.

    some questions which will seem dumb t those expereinced in this work.

    - Is there a particular motive power bleeder gadget I should consider?
    - What is the OEM brake fluid to get?
    - is it only the 4 calipers to be bled?
    - process for doing the ABS?

    Have bled brakes on old trucks and previous 4WD before by the old method of somebody pumping up the brakes while you bleed at the nipple.
    I'm assuming you can't do that on the D3/4??
    ta
    cheers
    P

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    1,744
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PeterOZ View Post

    Have bled brakes on old trucks and previous 4WD before by the old method of somebody pumping up the brakes while you bleed at the nipple.
    I'm assuming you can't do that on the D3/4??
    ta
    cheers
    P
    You can still do that if you like, apart from the addition of the ABS module theres really no difference to the brake system of old. I was hopping the last time I did my brakes that my IID tool would be able to use the ABS system to bleed - but no it activates the ABS pump but dosent pump anything through the brake lines. Must only circulate the fluid through the module itself
    Shane
    2005 D3 TDV6 loaded to the brim with 4 kids!
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/220914-too-many-defender-write-ups-here-time-d3.html

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,616
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PeterOZ View Post
    Have bled brakes on old trucks and previous 4WD before by the old method of somebody pumping up the brakes while you bleed at the nipple.
    I'm assuming you can't do that on the D3/4??
    ta
    cheers
    P
    Of course you can the D3/D4 is really no different to an old 48 landie in this respect. Start with the caliper further from the the master - passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front and driver front.

    Pump/bleed as you have always done - too easy. The master and abs will normally take care of itself.

    People with these cars seem to want to make things harder than it needs to be - basic principles apply to all cars.

    I buy my brake fluid from the dealer - found it is cheaper and is of course the correct stuff.

    garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!