Driver side to right and down from booster is a spare grommet, then feed over to a pillar and down behind kick panel and under the will trims into the channel that runs to the rear door area.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi all,
I want to have an Anderson plug in the rear cargo area of my D4 and am having trouble trying to find a suitable hole/grommet I can use to get the wire from the engine bay to the inside of the car.
Im not fussed if it’s driver or pax side but would prefer as high up as possible, has anyone done this?
Any intel most appreciated.
Cheers
Mike
Driver side to right and down from booster is a spare grommet, then feed over to a pillar and down behind kick panel and under the will trims into the channel that runs to the rear door area.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						Why not just run the wires along the chassis, drill a hole in the floor where you want the wires to end up and use a suitable size grommet or cable gland to seal it up.
URSUSMAJOR
 Swaggie
					
					
						Swaggie
					
					
						I have thought about this as well.
Only a remote chance the body has to come off,then if it does,its only one more wire to disconnect.
The main issue would be trying to run it where it is not vulnerable to damage or chafing.
Not much easier to run it underneath anyway,once through firewall,the trims come off pretty easily and there is enough room under them.
I pushed mine through a grommet somewhere above the accelerater pedal,but can't remember exactly where.It was difficult to get through though.
 TopicToaster
					
					
						Subscriber
					
					
						TopicToaster
					
					
						SubscriberI ran along the chassis to the rear tow point for what I needed (power camper). That was simple enough. I know when I get to the need for a body off I will drop the wire at the front at the battery to free that up and at the rear. It’s all of 5 minutes work before I take it somewhere where it’s body off. Wire is insulated with additional protection at all exposed points as well as being protected by a circuit breaker.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
It is not rubbish.
There have been quite a few cases, where the owner has had wiring done by someone else, who did not know about the body off requirements and the owner was also unaware the wiring was in the wrong place, and this is usually trailer brake wiring, and the Disco has gone in for servicing.
When the body was removed, the wiring was torn out and it is not the workshop’s reponcibility to repair the damaged wiring.
If YOU know the wiring is in the chassis, and YOU know there is work to be done requiring a body off fix, YOU can carry out the disconnects required prior to YOU take the disco in for a service.
So if YOU want to take a short cut, go right ahead, but others have paid dearly for that same short cut.
It is far safer just to run the cabling through a Disco, in the first place, right beside Land Rovers wiring. Then there are no issues should a body off be required and absolutely no need to drill holes in the floor or anywhere else.
Some extra details and photos in post #38 of the D4 electric brakes sticky thread; link & example photo below:
D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring
Cheers,
Scott

D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
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