Interesting. Front right was the hardest on my D3. Front left, crack the nut with a long flex head 15mm ratchet spanner then used a stubby flex head 15mm ratchet spanner. No problems.
Front right I could get the spanner on the nut but no room to swing it. Don’t know the difference between right and left.
As a last resort I had a short 15mm socket. Put it on the nut. Just enough room to attach the handle, “bob’s your uncle”. With all the posts about how difficult it was to access. Coming through the engine with log flex extension etc. Didn’t even think of using a socket.
So if you find a short 15mm socket it might just work.
MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.
D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.
OEM is not necessarily genuine unfortunately. They supposedly come from the same factory but have their genuine LR markings removed. Some question whether they really are the really deal. I think even though you bought from Duckworths you may, and I say may, have not received genuine but OEM.
I cannot say for sure what Duckworths define OEM but if you go to LR Direct etc you’ll see the various option between LR, OEM, Aftermarket etc.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
I asked for a price on genuine from Dan at Duckworths. He said he could sell me genuine but the OEM / Delphi were the same product. He might have a higher margin selling OEM I don’t know. No labels of any kind on my struts also. Happy with them so far but only have 7000kms on them. Changed them at 210k. I did the front first as was waiting for my GOE emergency air up kit which I still don’t have. There was a noticeable difference but didn’t get to drive with all four changed at once. I think the difference would have been more obvious if I had changed all four together.
MY08 TDV6 D3 Zermatt Silver, B.A.S ECU Remap, ARB Bar, 12K Kingone Winch, 2x100Ah LiFePo4 Auxiliary Power, Safari Snorkel, Baja Rack Roof Rack, Brown Davis Aux. Tank, RWC, Front Runner Rear Ladder, Drifta Drawers, Doran TPMS, LLAMS, GAP IID BT.
I bought OEM too. I also didn’t notice a discernible difference in ride.
2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
2007 Audi RS4 (B7)
Interesting comment in here about ordering Genuine by putting G after the part number at 9:45.
Eternally confusing subject.
YouTube
I just used an exta long 15mm ring spanner to crack the back nut. Wouldn't say it was anything special, just borrowed one from the workshop. 20 minutes a corner the last 2 took me. Dead easy job. Torque wrench is a smart investment though.
I did this job yesterday, couple of things I’d note. The front struts I found to be easier than the rear. One rear in particular I really struggled to get the bottom joint in place to get the bolt through. Had to use a bottle jack to compress the shock and lever it into place.
I used a 15mm ratchet spanner to undo the top nuts, using a second ring spanner to lever the rear nut as access was tight. A long 15mm would have fixed this.
The brass fitting on top is 12mm, but again, access isn’t ideal, and I found undoing this a little slow. Also, even though the system was depressurised, there was still some pressure in the bags, so don’t be surprised when air comes out
All in all though, this guide helped immensely. I urge everyone to check their bags anyway. Mine were the originals, done 230,000km since 2005, and the front left failed out in the bush, leaving me stranded near Licola. Could have been a lot worse!
A job well worth doing yourself. Knocked all four over in a day and probably saved an arm and a leg in labour. Just be careful, take it slowly, as there is ample opportunity to hurt yourself!
Yes, I had the same issue with 1 particular corner (I think it was right-rear, but not 100% sure now). I have also noticed that I have had a few (3 or 4) suspension faults since completing this work.
Just at random times, only when lowering the vehicle after having it at offroad/extended height. I'm not sure if this is related to that strut not being well "aligned"...
Isn't really causing any issues though, so will continue to monitor...
Rob
D4 3.0L SE, MY10, Arctic White
ARB Colour-coded bullbar, Safari Snorkel, Traxide DBS, LRBT1 BT audio module, trying out some 19" Maxxis Bravo 980A/T's (ex Cooper Zeon LTZ's)
ex D1 2.5L 300Tdi, MY97 - loved it, gone to a better place.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks