Thread: Engine failure reasons TDV6 2.7

Originally Posted by Banjo Bob

I have purchased a 2005 D3 TD2.7 with 195k and a blown engine.
I am nearly finished a body off engine change.
I have used a 2014 low k territory engine.
The 2005 engine had no coolant in the bottle . Upon removing the sump and 6 liters or so of oil,I found metal slug that I think used to be the main bearings.
I am suspecting the coolant plastic manifold, on top of the engine at the front, that commonly leak on a seam. I know there is a guy in South Australia that make one out of aluminium.
Would any one have an opinion on the need to change the plastic for the aluminum coolant manifold, or is this not needed on a 2014 territory motor ?
Thanks
Bob

We've changed all of ours over to the alloy job, pretty cheap insurance as far as I'm concerned.
I guess you know what another motor is worth, so it's around $600 versus whatever you paid....

Your call

It’s highly likely the timing belt was never done. The plastic part seems to last this 7 yr or 160,000km interval with zero trouble.

Do this $50 part and the water pump at that time.

I know distantly a guy in Perth who sold a D3 2005 last year upgrading to a D5 had never done anything other than oil change services since new. Couldn’t believe it.

If the coolant housing let go (or any other part of the cooling system for that matter), wouldn't you almost instantly get a low coolant alarm?

I know in other makes that are prone to popping cooling system components (like splitting plastic radiator tanks) we've always fitted float switches to the coolant bottles. That gives you enough time to get off the road, shut down and investigate before things start really getting hot. Of course that relies on you having your reserve driver well trained so she doesn't just drive through the alarm "in the hope she'll get home safely".

Originally Posted by PerthDisco

It’s highly likely the timing belt was never done. The plastic part seems to last this 7 yr or 160,000km interval with zero trouble.

Do this $50 part and the water pump at that time.

I know distantly a guy in Perth who sold a D3 2005 last year upgrading to a D5 had never done anything other than oil change services since new. Couldn’t believe it.

You know you are wrong. I have a full service history for this D3 and belts were changed on time.

Hi Bob,

The machined aluminium water outlet is available from Triumph Rover Spares in Lonsdale (08 8384-6933, talk to Phil).

You can see the beast at WATER OUTLET - Part Specials - Triumph Rover Spares South Australia

My understanding is that if you change the plastic one at the same time as the timing & pump belts, you should be OK. But being a cautious lad, I got Ian to fit the ali substitute to the 2015 D4 I've just bought from him.

My mate had one of the plastic ones fail at highway speed on his way up the Stuart Hwy. When the low water alarm went off he pulled the car up from 110K as fast as he could - by the time he stopped the engine was toast. And remember that temperature gauges only read high when they're immersed in water - when the water is gone from around the sender, they tend to drop quickly and read low.

Good luck with the new engine!

Originally Posted by Banjo Bob

You know you are wrong. I have a full service history for this D3 and belts were changed on time.

I'm guessing the oil pump wasn't replaced.

There's consistent failures in the UK being reported with warped blocks. Some were even cracked, there's a lot of mechanics who believe this is what causes the shells to spin, which results in the crank failure.

All hearsay really, unless Land Rover admit to a cause, which they never will. It's just as likely for a 3.0l to fail as it is a 2.7l though. Will be interesting to see how many 3.0l D5's fail.

Originally Posted by Russrobe

There's consistent failures in the UK being reported with warped blocks. Some were even cracked, there's a lot of mechanics who believe this is what causes the shells to spin, which results in the crank failure.

All hearsay really, unless Land Rover admit to a cause, which they never will. It's just as likely for a 3.0l to fail as it is a 2.7l though. Will be interesting to see how many 3.0l D5's fail.

I’ve seen posts of D5 crank failures which I was dumbfounded by.