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Had the same thought myself Grumbles, pulled out the pads at the weekend but solid.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumbles
Strongly leaning towards UCA ball joint at this stage. Fitting go pro tonight then a quick drive should tell if I'm right or not. If so I'll try and post video.
I get a terrible rattle through the steering wheel on corrugations on our drive-way. Really loud at 60/70 kph.
For some reason I have always thought it was the steering lock.Sounds terrible but I got used to it!!
I'm not really sure why I think this but we have owned the D4 for 5ish years and 140,000 klicks.
Over to you.
Have had the same issue of metallic rattle in front RHS when going over carpark speed humps in my 2014 D4. Noise first appeared after I had the front bushes replaced at LR dealer just prior to Christmas. This could have been a coincidence.... Took the car back to dealer to fix. They found the metal undertray for the transmission touching the body and reportedly causing a tapping noise. Dealer claimed they couldn't have caused this when replacing the bushes, but that this may have happened when the wheels were aligned after the bushes were replaced. Dealer adjusted the under tray and reported all fixed. It wasn't, so took the car back the next day. Dealer then checked all suspension bushes and removed all heat shields and road tested -noise still apparent. Next step was to remove front brake rotors -all reportedly ok. Final step was to clear out (most of) the debris from chassis rails. They couldn't get it all and claimed that the remaining rocks were the cause of the noise. While the noise didn't sound like rock on metal to me, it potentially could have been. Either way, noise now nowhere near as apparent. While I am not completely sure that the issue was or whether it has been fully rectified, the situation is much better than it was. Also, to their credit, the dealer did not charge for the above. Figured it might be useful to those with the same issue to know of steps taken and outcome. At the very least, it might be worth flushing out your chassis rails.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumbles
So before replacing the UCAs and lower steering shaft a fellow at work twisted my arm into having one more look at the front pads and calipers. Put in on hoist, pulled off front wheels for the umpteenth time and had a really close look. Discovered that the backing plate was not completely adhered to the pad (both sides) so applied an orange goo normally used to stop rattles and squealing in brake components, a little like a liquid gasket. Applied liberally to backing plates, piston faces and the grooves which the pad tabs slide in.
Took it for a drive and could not force a rattle, hmm maybe he was right to twist my arm and maybeee I owe him a bottle of red.. I’ll give it another couple of days before I call it fixed, especially given it been into 4 different suspension shops for investigation, I’ve replaced the LCAs twice, sway bar bushes and pins and tightened the !!!,,, out of everything else.
Do you mean the pad had delaminated? Did you replace the pads?
No the pad material itself is fine. Two issues I could diagnose - firstly the thin metal plate that's riveted to the back of the metal pad the brake material is bonded to was a little loose. To resolve that I applied some disk quiet compound in the void then hammered the rivets solid again.
Then I applied the compound to the surface of the calipers where they contact the pad, and also in the groove the brake tabs slide in.
Waited a few hours before driving for compound to set then several test drives.
It seems to have resolved the metallic rattle, no longer evident over the pot holes which previously caused the noise.
I head into the Victorian high country for a week tomorrow and will report back next week if this is a permanent fix.
Later this year I need to replace both front pads and disks anyway so realistically this is a temporary measure.
Which brand brake pads were they?
I find this so hard to align with the feedback on the noise given how insignificant the backing plate of the pad is in the scheme of things. Still I’m not going to argue with the reality of your noise dissipating.Quote:
Originally Posted by BushDisco
I use a high temp silicon lubricant designed for brakes on all brake moving elements as you describe (piston to pad, plus sliders etc)
Bendix from memory, changed in December 2017 and the noise first evident when on first 4wd tracks post replacement in January 2018.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
Now about 50% used so will change towards the end of the year along with disks.
Yep, I'm with you Disco Jeffster, I examined the brake components on two separate occasions prior to applying this "fix" and am still dubious. I'll be driving several rough roads and tracks over next few days so will report back next week.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster
To be honest I was leaning towards top hats or UCA ball joints although I could not cause movement with a pry bar.