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Thread: D4 A/C Compressor issue

  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by josh.huber View Post
    Change all the parts your ordered, get them to add heaps of oil.. Enjoy life with windows up.

    If it was mine. If get a mobile guy to quickly flush the TX and evap, then come back and push the gas in.

    Air con is never cheap, gas and parts are getting more expensive every day, so is licensing, training and staying up to date with everything..
    I live 40km from the nearest town, but will be enquiring to availability and costs of mobile mechanic. otherwise ill just drive in with guard inner trim removed, get gas removed and get flushed if accessible, drive home change pump with clutch hub removed and condenser, drive back in get gas, drive home put hub on.

  2. #152
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by haydent View Post
    drive back in get gas, drive home put hub on.
    Put the hub on before you let the A/C guy gas it up otherwise there's no way to test it.
    If he's any good, he's going to want at least a standing leak test, so budget some extra time. It's not just a case of "git 'er done".
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  3. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    Put the hub on before you let the A/C guy gas it up otherwise there's no way to test it.
    If he's any good, he's going to want at least a standing leak test, so budget some extra time. It's not just a case of "git 'er done".
    I will if i can, access and permissions pending, as had to drain some of the coolant, remove 2 radiator hoses and 2 intercooler hoses , and fan to get to the compressor front from top. Maybe I will be able to do it through the side wheel arch once I get that inner panel off

  4. #154
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    I asked a local goodyear mechanic when getting some new tyres to look up a labour estimate on ac pump/condenser replacement, as they do mechanical and hychill ac as well not just tyres.

    He couldnt find it in his software so rang landrover, who said I would require a full system replacement due to pump failure including tx valve and evaporator. Potentially involving body off, and it would take one of their trained/experienced technicians 26 hours labour...

    Im hoping seems my pump doesnt feel like its ground itself to a seized halt that it wont have filled the system beyond the condenser with metal. Once I get it open ill start by inspecting the hose leaving the condenser.

    Also Ive read online and the mechanic today confirmed you cant flush through a tx valve, so to flush completely you would have to take that out...

  5. #155
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    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  6. #156
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    D4 A/C Compressor issue

    Shanegtr on Shane Shed on YouTube has changed his AC compressor!

    Wow - evaporator! If you had nothing to do for a month and a nice shed that would be quite an interesting job.

    Once you get the seats out working in that area gets a lot easier instantaneously.

  7. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by haydent View Post
    I asked a local goodyear mechanic when getting some new tyres to look up a labour estimate on ac pump/condenser replacement, as they do mechanical and hychill ac as well not just tyres.

    He couldnt find it in his software so rang landrover, who said I would require a full system replacement due to pump failure including tx valve and evaporator. Potentially involving body off, and it would take one of their trained/experienced technicians 26 hours labour...

    Im hoping seems my pump doesnt feel like its ground itself to a seized halt that it wont have filled the system beyond the condenser with metal. Once I get it open ill start by inspecting the hose leaving the condenser.

    Also Ive read online and the mechanic today confirmed you cant flush through a tx valve, so to flush completely you would have to take that out...
    Land Rover again bending over it's customers,unfortunately also giving the brand a bad name.

    The Drier will catch most if not all the bits and pieces,and there will be some in the condenser.
    We use suction line driers in commercial refrigeration,one fitted to an Auto AC system would probably be difficult,even temporary,but it would definitely help clean up the system,and stop any rubbish getting into the new compressor.

    Last resort,hot water poured over a TX valve and the power element bulb will get it to open,so the system can be flushed,but if the TX is not accessible,this will be impossible.Taking the valve out,as said, is preferable.

  8. #158
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    Sounds like it’s simplest to risk the Evap and tx and just change the compressor, dryer and condenser and cross your fingers
    2010 TDV6 3.0L Discovery 4 HSE
    2007 Audi RS4 (B7)

  9. #159
    josh.huber Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoJeffster View Post
    Sounds like it’s simplest to risk the Evap and tx and just change the compressor, dryer and condenser and cross your fingers
    It's not really a risk, it's a series circuit. Compressor, condenser, (long path little holes) drier, (filter), then TX valve.

    You shouldn't flush through a tx valve, but I have a 1000 times.. I always get nervous but still do it.. All you ever get out is oil. If be more nervous to not flush..

  10. #160
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    Update, I was changing the tyre size with gap, and checked the errors, now there is new one saying the AC system pressure is too low. I checked the reading and it is basically nothing, so it would seem everything has leaked out anyway, so this will save me getting the system drained.

    Interesting thing though is that this error does not raise any messages/warnings on the dash, so you could be driving around with no gas and not know, while the pump is still turning, maybe it doesnt matter, maybe it does, no clutch, but maybe the oil stays in the pump...


    worse than I thought, not going to be doing that.

    Shanegtr on Shane Shed on YouTube has changed his AC compressor!
    turns out ive seen that video, but will be watching it aga'n

    The Drier will catch most if not all the bits and pieces,and there will be some in the condenser.
    Looking at the flow, it seems it goes from the pump to the bottom of the condenser, and then exits from the top, so you'd expect heavy metallic bit to stay in the bottom.

    Sounds like it’s simplest to risk the Evap and tx and just change the compressor, dryer and condenser and cross your fingers
    In hindsight i think I would have instead looked into getting a $2-300 7SEU17C core for a different car, and swapping the bits over if possible to do it cheaper in case something goes wrong.

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